• Roby Lake Trailhead — The Big Piney Trail, December 2023

    A vault toilet has appeared at the Roby Lake Trailhead parking lot since my last visit. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

    Day One

    I’ve not been out backpacking since July. It seems that having loads of time to go backpacking gives me lots of excuses to leave it for another day. When I was here in May, I made a note to return at some point in the winter, when the temperatures were easier, the trees had lost their leaves, the bugs would be gone, and I could have a clear view from the scenic overlook. I had also spotted a potentially great place to hang my hammock that I wanted to try out.

    I plan to stay out for three nights, but the weather is only looking favorable for the overlook on Day Three. I had a plan that ought to work. Water might be a bit of a problem, I’d find that out when I got to Little Paddy Creek.

    Day One — I’d hike the four-and-a-half miles on the South Loop to a place I’ve dubbed ‘Paddy Creek Trolltunga’ and camp there. There’s no water on the ridge so I’ll fill up at Little Paddy Creek and carry in enough for the night.

    Paddy Creek’s answer to Trolltunga? (February 2020). Copyright © 2020 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

    Day Two — Would be a short day, taking the short cut over to the North Loop, hiking around three miles or so to a spot where there has been water on my previous trips.

    Day Three — Would be a longer day, six or more miles, completing the North Loop and starting back on the South Loop, stopping for lunch at the Scenic Overlook, and camping at a campsite near the trail and Little Paddy Creek. I’ve taken a look at this site before, but I’ve never stopped for the night.

    Day Four — Hike back along the South Loop, and along the spur-trail to the trailhead, six-and-a-half miles.

    The weather was going to be a tad chilly at night, with lows of around 30°F but warm enough, in the forties and fifties during the day.

    At the last moment I switched my summer quilts for my winter quilts, just in case it got a bit cold. I’ve hiked this trail a couple of times before, so with the heavier quilts and four days’ worth of food, I decided to save some weight and leave my camera behind. My phone’s camera would do.

    Miraculously, I managed to get away from home in good time, and I arrived at the trailhead at 11:30 am. It was 41°F, and heavily overcast.

  • Not a lot of water

    Not a lot of water — Backpacking the Big Piney Trail, December 2023. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

    This is Little Paddy Creek. I’ve never seen it this low, it was not really running. There were just a couple of pools. That doesn’t bode well for my trip. And all the small springs I have passed so far have been dry too.

    I collected enough water for the night from the pools a bit upstream.

    Gary with a dry-ish creek bed in the background — Backpacking the Big Piney Trail, December 2023. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

  • Sun burst through the trees

    Sun burst through the trees — Backpacking the Big Piney Trail, December 2023. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

    Taken on the South Loop at the short cut to the North Loop trail junction. I’m continuing on the South Loop — into the sun. It took me just over three-and-a-half hours to get here. That included a snack break and stopping to heat up some lunch.

  • Gary on the trail (and a new hat, too)

    Gary on the trail (and a new hat, too) Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

    On the South Loop at the shortcut junction. Backpacking the Big Piney Trail, December 2023.

    The hat is my first all-leather hat with a much wider brim to keep me dry and the sun out of my eyes at those times of year when the sun is lower in the sky all day long.

  • The well was dry

    The well was dry — Backpacking the Big Piney Trail, December 2023. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

    I was surprised to spy a rat at the bottom of the well. It hid before I could take a picture. I was tempted to remove the sticks to make it harder for it to climb out, but I’m not that mean. The rat has more right to be here than I have.

    I’ve seen this well full to the brim. It’s looking like I may need to re-think my plans for Day Two. I’ll study the map. Tomorrow I’ll cross several creeks on the North Loop, not to mention Little Paddy Creek, maybe I’ll find a creek with water in it that I can camp nearby. I want to be a bit further on than Little Paddy Creek Though.

  • Ooh, it fits!

    Camped in Paddy Creek Wilderness, at a spot I’ve nicknamed Paddy Creek Trolltunga. Backpacking the Big Piney Trail, December 2023. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

  • Paddy Creek — Day One

  • Morning view from my hammock

    Morning view from my hammock — Camped in Paddy Creek Wilderness, at a spot I’ve nicknamed Paddy Creek Trolltunga. Backpacking the Big Piney Trail, December 2023. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

    Day Two

    I didn’t bother with the tarp, I enjoyed the night watching the stars and Satellites. The temps dropped to just below freezing, but I was nice and cozy.

    I also spent some time last night studying the map, and I’ll carry on as planned. If there’s no water where I want to stop, I’ll keep hiking along the North Loop (less distance to go on Day Three — yay!). I’ll cross a couple of creeks that might have water, and if none do, I found one creek that descends fairly gently (according to the map) down to Little Paddy Creek, I’ll bushwhack down to Little Paddy Creek if necessary.

  • Hammock Camping in Paddy Creek Wilderness

    Camped in Paddy Creek Wilderness, at a spot I’ve nicknamed Paddy Creek Trolltunga. Backpacking the Big Piney Trail, December 2023. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

    As it is going to be a short day in terms of mileage, I don’t have to rush to get on the trail. I took the time to light up my Firebox Nano stove for my morning coffee, breakfast, and a follow-up cuppa tea. After breakfast I explored the area. Which just means I was wandering around.

  • Have a go at spotting my hammock

    Have a go at spotting my hammock — Backpacking the Big Piney Trail, December 2023. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

    You should just be able to make it out. Center frame on the skyline!

    It was easier to climb down the side of the ravine than I expected.

  • Don’t take a step back …

    Don’t take a step back … Backpacking the Big Piney Trail, December 2023. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

  • Not where I expected to be, not what I expected to find, and some minor problems along the way

    Finally, I found a spring with lots of water — Backpacking the Big Piney Trail, December 2023. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

    Finally, I found a spring with lots of water. The three creeks at my planned campsite were dry. I had grabbed some water when I crossed Little Paddy Creek, but only a liter. Nothing for it but to carry on with my plan to hike along the North Loop and then bushwhack down to Little Paddy Creek, which has got me where I am now.

    I’m waaay off trail bushwhacking down towards Little Paddy Creek, and I just:

    • Broke the right ankle strap on my left sandal (huaraches) trying to climb up a large 10-15 ft boulder, blocking my way through a set of dry shut-ins.

    Then while hobbling around barefoot(ish) trying to find somewhere to stop and repair my sandal, I

    • Discovered this idyllic set of spring fed pools.
    Not the first time … Gary fixing the laces on his huaraches, April 2013. Copyright © 2013 Ginger Allman, all rights reserved.

    I don’t carry a spare pair of shoes. The sandals I wear are not ordinary sandals. They are designed for hiking, trail running, and ultra marathons, so they are hardy. I have always planned for a failure of the toe post — I’ve had that happen many times over the years. However, this is the first time I’ve had an ankle strap break free.

    I did a quick fix (that wasn’t at all effective), just to get me to a place to stop for the night with nearby water. I needed to work out a more permanent fix to last the remaining ten-plus miles of my trip.

    Inspecting my other shoe, I found it was close to breaking too, so I was going to have to be more careful on the trail. I had taken a tumble off the boulder when the first shoe broke, I didn’t want to take another fall, especially if I was near a drop-off!

    Once I had camp set up, I came up with a solution which worked, and looked like it would last the next couple of days.

  • Spring with pools

    Finally, I found a spring with lots of water — Backpacking the Big Piney Trail, December 2023. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

    I camped a short distance downstream from here where the hollow widened out letting me set up my hammock well away from the water sources.

  • Paddy Creek — Day Two

  • Frosty Morning in Paddy Creek Wilderness

    Frosty Morning — Backpacking the Big Piney Trail, December 2023. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

    Day Three

    The temperature dropped to 19°F (-7°C) overnight. The predicted low was 28°F. I was glad I changed my mind and packed my bigger and heavier 10°F quilts.

    It was a bit chilly when I rolled out of bed in the morning — The temperature dropped to 19°F (-7°C) overnight. The predicted low was 28°F. Backpacking the Big Piney Trail, December 2023. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.
    Frosty Morning — The temperature dropped to 19°F (-7°C) overnight. The predicted low was 28°F. I was glad I changed my mind and packed my bigger and heavier 10°F quilts. Backpacking the Big Piney Trail, December 2023. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.
    Frosty Morning — The temperature dropped to 19°F (-7°C) overnight. The predicted low was 28°F. I was glad I changed my mind and packed my bigger and heavier 10°F quilts. Backpacking the Big Piney Trail, December 2023. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

  • Running Repairs

    Running Repairs — Backpacking the Big Piney Trail, December 2023. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

    I’ve always had a plan for dealing with broken shoes on the trail. But … that plan reckoned on the toe post breaking not the side posts. I did a bit of head scratching before I came up with this solution which lasted me the ten-plus miles I needed to hike to get back to the car.

  • Frosty Morning in Paddy Creek Wilderness

    Frosty Morning — The temperature dropped to 19°F (-7°C) overnight. The predicted low was 28°F. I was glad I changed my mind and packed my bigger and heavier 10°F quilts. Backpacking the Big Piney Trail, December 2023. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

    Not that it is easy to see the frost in this picture, but it is there!

  • Signs of civilization

    Signs of civilization — The yucca plants appear wherever there used to be an old homestead. Backpacking the Big Piney Trail, December 2023. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

  • Making lunch

    Making lunch. Backpacking the Big Piney Trail, December 2023. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

    That’s the objective of this trip achieved, I’m at the Big Paddy Creek Scenic Overlook. It is time to make lunch and enjoy the view.

  • Scenic overlook on the Big Piney Trail

    Scenic overlook on the Big Piney Trail — Backpacking the Big Piney Trail, December 2023. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

    This view was the reason for my trip. I’d seen this vista in the spring, and I wanted to come back and see it in winter. I’m glad I did.

  • Scenic overlook on the Big Piney Trail — Looking Southeast

    Scenic overlook on the Big Piney Trail — This was the reason for my trip. I’d seen this vista in the spring and I wanted to come back and see it in winter. Backpacking the Big Piney Trail, December 2023. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

  • Scenic overlook on the Big Piney Trail — Looking Northwest

    Scenic overlook on the Big Piney Trail — This was the reason for my trip. I’d seen this vista in the spring and I wanted to come back and see it in winter. Backpacking the Big Piney Trail, December 2023. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

  • A selfie for the folks back home

    A selfie for the folks back home. I actually had some cell service here! Backpacking the Big Piney Trail, December 2023. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

  • Looking down Big Paddy Creek

    Looking down Big Paddy Creek — not a lot of water flowing. No surprises there. Backpacking the Big Piney Trail, December 2023. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

  • What is that I spy up on the ridge?

    What is that I spy up on the ridge? Well, I’ll be … I’d just crossed Big Paddy Creek, and I was taking advantage of the lack of Foliage to try and find the Scenic overlook, and there it is — center frame. Backpacking the Big Piney Trail, December 2023. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.
    Scenic Overlook from Big Paddy Creek — and here it is at the max zoom of my phone. Backpacking the Big Piney Trail, December 2023. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

  • Paddy Creek — Day Three

  • My quilt got a little frosty

    My quilt got a little frosty, though according to my notes it was only 30°F. Backpacking the Big Piney Trail, December 2023. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

    Day Four

    The place I planned to stop at didn’t offer any good hammock camping spots, so I crossed Little Paddy Creek in search of somewhere better. I settled for this very scrubby spot because it was starting to get dark. If I’d carried on for another one hundred yards, I would have found a great place to camp.

    Oh well, I have that option stored away for another trip.

    My quilt got a little frosty, though according to my notes it was only 30°F. Backpacking the Big Piney Trail, December 2023. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

  • Snake on the Trail

    This snake was sunning itself on the trail — Backpacking the Big Piney Trail, December 2023. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

    I was not expecting to find snakes out in December, so I’m glad I spotted this one. We’ve not positively ID’d it yet. It doesn’t look dangerous, but when it got fed up with me watching it, it coiled ready to strike and it had a diamond shaped head. But it didn’t have viperous eyes. I left it alone, it wants to sunbathe in December, good luck.

    Snake on the Big Piney Trail, December 2023. My best guess (so far) is that it is a Western Rat snake (Pantherophis obsoletus). Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

  • What? No end of hike selfie?

    What a scenic overlook looks like from the trail. Backpacking the Big Piney Trail, December 2023. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

    Nope. So, this will have to do. It’s a scenic overlook on Little Paddy Creek, taken on my hike out.

  • Paddy Creek — Day Four

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