Paddy Creek Wilderness, February 2025

Three days at Paddy Creek Wilderness, Missouri, February 2025

There have not been many opportunities to go hiking since the beginning of January, and I was eager to get out before February was over. My first plan for four days hiking the Berryman Trail was dashed. I decided to spend three days on the Big Piney Trail at Paddy Creek Wilderness instead. It was a good hike, but it wasn’t all smooth sailing.

  • Signs of confusion

    Signs of confusion — It appears that the most popular route, along the North Loop to the falls (straight ahead), is no longer signposted. Paddy Creek Wilderness, February 2025. Copyright © 2025 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

    I’m back at Paddy Creek Wilderness, hiking the Big Piney Trail. When I got to the North/South Loop junction, this is what I found. It appears that what is probably the most popular route, along the North Loop to the falls (straight ahead) and back, does not have a signpost. Maybe someone has run off with it? Anyway, I am taking the South Loop — to the right.

    Packing for a four day trip — The trip was not to be. After packing everything I was taken poorly, and didn’t get away until Thursday. Copyright © 2025 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

    The Trail signs were not the only confusing thing about this trip. I was supposed to be on a four-day hike counterclockwise of the Berryman Trail. Monday night, I was all packed and ready to head off the next day when AFIB struck. I decided to rest up for a couple of days and do a shorter, three-day hike somewhere a little less ‘remote’ 🙂

    The Big Piney Trail at Paddy Creek fit the bill. The weather forecast was warm, with potentially one cold night and one cool day.

    The Big Piney Trail, Paddy Creek Wilderness

    Paddy Creek Wilderness, Missouri

    To get a few extra miles, I decided to repeat my March 2024 trip, which involved a figure-of-eight route, stretching the seventeen-plus-mile Big Piney Trail to twenty-two miles.

    This route has me overnighting at my two favorite spots in Paddy Creek Wilderness: ‘Spring Hollow‘ and ‘Paddy Creek Trolltunga.’

    The Big Piney Trail has two main segments, the North and South Loops. There are two trailheads. Roby Lake Trailhead at the southernmost end of the trail, and the Pig Piney Trailhead at the north end. The loops include a trail segment north of Paddy Creek Road (County Rd. 2650) that is outside the wilderness, but within the bounds of Mark Twain National Forest. There is also a two mile ‘short cut’ which joins the North and South Loops around five to five-and-a-half miles from the Roby Lake Trailhead.

    I like the Big Piney Trail. The trail is easy to follow, the scenery is varied, and the hollows are deep and steep, providing good climbs and descents that make you work for your trail snacks, lunches, and dinners. There are two (and more) good scenic overlooks. The lower section of Little Paddy Creek, and Big Paddy Creek provide reliable water sources.

    There’s plenty of history here, too. I’ve seen evidence of five homesteads along the trail. The shortcut and a section of the North Loop run along an old military road, which can be clearly seen (I wish I’d noted the source of that information).

    However, the shortcut and portions of the North Loop trails also have some challenging, large, rough, loose rock surfaces. Many of the trail’s creek crossings will be impassable at times of high water. Finally, the trail becomes overgrown in the summer when the ticks and bugs are ferocious. Which altogether is about the worst I can say.

    Weather

    It looks to be nice and warm until early Saturday morning, followed by a cool hike out.

    The above image is courtesy of my subscription to windy.com (Check out the free version, it is the best weather site I’ve found. If you are a weather nerd, subscribe! I’m not an affiliate; I just want to see them remain in business).

    Gear

    Though it’ll be warm on a couple of the three days I’ll be out, the cool nights and early mornings prompted me to pack a complete base layer, fleece pants, my down hooded jacket, and my rain jacket for a wind break. I also have some new running shorts with zip-up pockets. I’ll be giving them a try out on the warmer days to see if they are practical on the trail. Just in case the forecast is wrong, and to make sure I have nice cozy warm nights, I’m taking my 10°F under quilt paired with my 40°F top quilt.

    Apart from the shorts, the only other piece of new gear is a 500ml water bottle to keep my water + electrolytes separate. It fits in my pack’s side pocket along with my one-liter Platypus pouch of plain water.

    My original pack weighed 35 lbs. It contained four days’ food and three and a half liters of water. For my revised trip, I had three days’ food and only one and a half liters of water, and the pack weight dropped to 26 lbs.

    The Plan

    • Day One. Start at the Roby Lake Trailhead. Take the South Loop up until the Shortcut to the North Loop. Take the Shortcut, and then the North Loop and camp in ‘Spring Hollow.’
    • Day Two. Head north on the North Loop and carry on south on the South Loop, stopping at Little Paddy Creek to fill up with enough water for the night before climbing up onto the ridge and carrying on until I get to ‘Paddy Creek Trolltunga’ and camp there.
    • Day Three. The Shortcut is ten minutes or so from my campsite. Take the Shortcut, top up with water at the Little Paddy Creek Crossing, and then carry on, going south on the North Loop back to the Roby Lake Trailhead.

    When I checked the trail mileages, I realized that I had AFIB when I last hiked this route. I have learned from not taking enough meds on the Berryman Trail and packed plenty this time. Even so, Monday/Tuesday’s AFIB left me hesitant but determined to get the hike done.

    Notes from an earlier hike: The Trail Marked on the USGS and Forest Service maps is wrong – It is offset 240 yards to the north.

    Warning — more confusion!

    If you are reading this and planning your own trip, note that, as of this date, the USGS and Forest Service maps of Paddy Creek Wilderness show the trail in the wrong position. On those maps, it is offset 240 yards to the north.

  • North Loop

    North Loop. Paddy Creek Wilderness, February 2025. Copyright © 2025 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

    It took me an hour and a half to get here from the North/South Loop trail junction. Here being at the junction with the shortcut to the North Loop. In the background you can see the chimney of the abandoned homestead.

    When I crossed Little Paddy Creek on my way here, there was some water running. That’s the first time I’ve seen water in Little Paddy Creek at that point in over a year. The two wells on the ridge and the stock ponds I passed had water, too. That’s good news.

    From here I’m taking the ‘shortcut’ to the North Loop. This is one of the roughest sections of the trail to hike on, with several sections that are all large loose rocks.

  • Spring in ‘Spring Hollow’

    Spring in ‘Spring Hollow’ — This spring is proving to be very reliable and was running well. Paddy Creek Wilderness, February 2025. Copyright © 2025 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

    I’ll let my Trail Journal set out how I got here. The ‘Three Creeks Crossing’ mentioned below is my name for the point where Paddy Creek Bald Ridge Spur crosses a creek just off the main Big Piney Trail. I call it ‘Three Creeks’ because just above the crossing, the creek is formed from three converging creeks.

    1402 — Old homestead
    1449 — Little Paddy Creek Crossing
    1500 — On the trail after snacks
    1515 — Three Creeks Crossing Shortcut
    1520 — Three Creeks Crossing. Dry.
    1535 — Leave the trail.

    Getting past the shut-ins to get to this point proved more sketchy than usual, mainly because I picked a different route to get here, and I ended up with a very steep descent into the hollow.

  • ‘Spring Hollow’ a great secluded spot

    ‘Spring Hollow’ a great secluded spot — Getting here across all the large boulders and down the steep hollow sides can be a bit sketchy, but worth the effort. Paddy Creek Wilderness, February 2025. Copyright © 2025 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

    I plan to setup my hammock somewhere on top of that big rock formation.

  • ‘Spring Hollow’

    ‘Spring Hollow’ — I decided to camp above the big rock formation on the right. Paddy Creek Wilderness, February 2025. Copyright © 2025 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

    Day One Stats

  • Camped above ‘Spring Hollow’

    Day Two

    Camped above ‘Spring Hollow.’ Paddy Creek Wilderness, February 2025. Copyright © 2025 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

    One of the great things about hammocks is that setting them up on the side of a steep hill is not a problem, allowing me to camp up on the side of the hollow overlooking the creek.

    As I’ve come to expect, the overnight temperature forecast, at 37°F, was way off. I did wonder why I was feeling a bit chilly overnight. It dropped to 27°F. I should have added some layers to keep warm. But in the words of my wonderful wife, “Did you die?” Nah, I was fine.

    I didn’t bother setting the tarp; the skies were clear, there was no Moon, and I wanted to enjoy the stars. They put on a good show!

    Yesterday evening, while collecting water for the night, I passed by one of my previous camping spots, and something caught my eye. Hanging on a tree was a carabiner I thought I had ‘lost.’ No longer! It had been hanging there for nearly three months, waiting for me to come and find it.

  • Looking out across ‘Spring Hollow’

    Looking out across ‘Spring Hollow.’ Paddy Creek Wilderness, February 2025. Copyright © 2025 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.
  • Frozen stock pond

    Frozen stock pond. Paddy Creek Wilderness, February 2025. Copyright © 2025 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

    This stock pond is a short way east of the Pig Piney Trailhead spur trail junction. I’d packed up camp and back on the Big Piney Trail at eleven-fifteen. It took me an hour to get here. Next stop, the scenic overlook (no pictures, I have plenty already).

  • The second Big Paddy Creek crossing

    The second Big Paddy Creek crossing. Paddy Creek Wilderness, February 2025. Copyright © 2025 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

    After crossing the creek here, the sign directs you to go right. No, not anymore. Follow the trail to your left. This crossing is nice and shallow.

    When I last hiked this trail in December, I discovered that the first Big Paddy Creek crossing had been washed out and was deep. Crossing it this time, I took the route I noted back then, and although it was a bit of a scramble to get across the brush, I only got my feet wet, not the contents of my pockets!

    The trail between the first Big Paddy Creek crossing, and the second Big Paddy Creek Crossing (picture above), and the point where the trail heads south-ish up onto the ridge, which you can see in the distance in above, is quite sandy.

    I took time to get the sand off my feet because I could feel sand in my right heel strap rubbing, and it was getting a tad painful.

    After crossing Big Paddy Creek at this point it’s only a few minutes to where the trail goes up the ridge, where there is easy access to Little Paddy Creek. I stopped for some trail snacks and loaded up with enough water for the night (three and a half liters). It was very windy, and a brief period of cell phone signal at the overlook had informed me there was a burn ban in place until eight o’clock, which prompted me not to have a hot lunch.

  • Gary at the end of Day Two’s hike

    End of Day Two’s hike. Paddy Creek Wilderness, February 2025. Copyright © 2025 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.
  • End of Day Two’s hike

    End of Day Two’s hike — I’m stopping at ‘Paddy Creek Trolltunga’ tonight. Paddy Creek Wilderness, February 2025. Copyright © 2025 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

    By the time I had finished my day’s hike, my right heel had been rubbed raw — There was blood! 🙂 To add to my discomfort, something appeared wrong with my left big toe, which was very painful to touch and looked a bit ‘angry.’ There was nothing more to do about it but put a plaster on my heel and keep an eye on my toe. Whatever happened, I still had a minimum five-mile hike out tomorrow. At least my First Aid kit was earning its keep on this trip.

    Day Two Stats

    Day Two Stats — Paddy Creek Wilderness, February 2025.
  • Today, I’m wondering when that unsupported span will collapse

    Day Three

    Today I’m wondering when that unsupported span will collapse. It’s a good 75 ft. Paddy Creek Wilderness, February 2025. Copyright © 2025 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.
  • Camped at ‘Paddy Creek Trolltunga’

    Camped at ‘Paddy Creek Trolltunga’ — It’s been very windy. The big limb (top left) came down yesterday. Paddy Creek Wilderness, February 2025. Copyright © 2025 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

    Last night was forecast to be the coldest of the trip. After the previous night’s unexpected 27°F temps, I wrapped up warm in multiple layers before going to bed. I was toasty! And so I should have been, the low was around 44°F.

    It was a very windy but also pretty night, with multiple satellites and a shooting star to keep me amused.

    The morning’s news on my left foot was not so good. My toe and foot were swollen. It looked and felt remarkably like gout. I’ve not touched an alcoholic drink in weeks — I later learned that a high protein diet can also bring on gout, and my diet is definitely high protein.

    The sensible course of action would be to take the shorter South Loop trail back to the trailhead. But where’s the fun in that? I decided to stick with the plan and take the couple of miles longer and more rugged North Loop via the Shortcut. I’ve hobbled hiked ten plus miles with a splinter in my foot before, I could cope bit of pain, and it wasn’t going to do me any harm. The plaster on my heel should stop my other injury from hurting too much. Yeah, probably not.

  • Little Paddy Creek crossing on the North/South Loop Shortcut

    Little Paddy Creek crossing. Paddy Creek Wilderness, February 2025. Copyright © 2025 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

    This is the crossing on the shortcut between the North and South Loops. You used to be able to cross straight over here, but now it is too deep for my short legs. A lot of the bank, including the fire ring that was here, has been washed away.

    There’s a good crossing point a few yards downstream.

    Little Paddy Creek crossing — You can cross the creek easilly a few yards down stream from the old crossing point. Paddy Creek Wilderness, February 2025. Copyright © 2025 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

    I stopped here long enough to filter a liter and a half of water to last me the hike out.

    This is the last picture I took on this trip, as I’ve taken plenty of others previously.

    The folks over at Fort Leonard Wood must have been having a bumper day, as almost continual heavy explosions reverberated around the wilderness on the remainder of the hike. And the hike was a bit uncomfortable; even a leaf touching my left toe caused a sharp pain, and the raw spot on my right heel nagged at me the whole way. But I finished the hike, and in good time too.

  • Day Three stats and end of hike thoughts

    Day Three Stats — Paddy Creek Wilderness, February 2025.

    My total mileage for the trip was 22.02 miles, with 1,875 ft. of elevation climbed. Three days later (March 4), my left foot is still swollen, though getting much better every day. My right heel is still heeling (sic).

    What Worked

    Well, I’m very glad I opted for this three-day hike, rather sticking with my original plan of four days on the Berryman trail. Not only would that have involved an extra night out, but also another five miles of hiking.

    Honorable mentions:

    • Running shorts. These were great. I ended up wearing them on all three days, even on the final windy day which ended up at round 41°F.
    • 500 ml water bottle. Worked great it easily slips in and out of my pack’s side pocket. It took me ages to find a tall skinny bottle, but my efforts paid off. I most definitely didn’t want to be putting electrolytes into my one-liter Platypus, when I might be using the water for cooking.
    • Clothing. My layering plan worked very well. My Bass Pro waffle base layer with the fleece pants, merino wool shirt, and down hoody was fine for the 27°F morning, and the cool windy nights. Normally, I would also have carried an additional light weight down jacket in lieu of a jumper. I had one on order, but it hadn’t arrived when I left.
    • Hammock Bug Net. Because of the warmer temps, I thought the bugs might be out. They were. Several mosquitoes bit me. The bug net kept them off and helped keep the warmth in on the cold night.
    • Quilt choice. Despite the 27°F night going with the 40°F top quilt was fine. If I had also brought along the 40°F bottom quilt, I think it would have been a cold, miserable night.
    • Meds. I packed a lot; fortunately, I didn’t need any extras.
    • First Aid Kit. After many years of neglect and taking up pack space this seems to be coming into its own. But hopefully it doesn’t end up on this list too often.

    What didn’t work, and what I didn’t use

    • Feet. I’m puzzling over what caused my Bedrock sandals to rub a big hole in my right heel. I’ve hiked over one hundred trouble free miles on them prior to this trip. The jury, as they say, is still out on what caused this to happen.
    • Wood Stove. I didn’t use my wood stove this trip, but this time it was only because there was a burn ban in place.
    • Tarp. I opted not to set the tarp on both nights. I might not have used it, but I’m not sure I’d ever leave it behind.
    • Meals. The meals were fine, but not quite calorie dense enough. I need to pack more food.

    Lessons

    • Hiking Poles. I was putting away my hiking poles when I noticed the tip was missing on one, and it had significantly worn down the plastic end of the pole. Checking my backpacking logs, I first took the pole hiking in October 2020, and I have hiked over 600 miles with it.

      Note to self: Regularly check the carbide tips on my hiking poles. I had a spare bottom section of a hiking pole at home, and it was easily replaced.
    • Gear Check. Always perform a gear audit before leaving. Because of the delay between packing and leaving, I couldn’t remember if I’d packed certain items. Turns out I had, but I could have saved myself some time on the trail unloading stuff to check if I did.

    All in all, the issues were minor, and I thoroughly enjoyed the hike. Paddy Creek and Irish Wildernesses are becoming firm favorites, with decent length loop trails, and not too popular during the week. I met two hikers on the trail and saw two more go by in the distance while I was camped.

    Now I need to stabilize these annoying health issues so I can get some more trail miles under my belt.

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