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Dry — Whites Creek was dry

Dry — Whites Creek was dry. Whites Creek Trail, counter clockwise — December 2024. Copyright © 2024 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. I’ve seen the water level just a few feet below the cave mouth. But not this time.
The hike here was good, taking me and hour and fifteen minutes to get to Whites Creek. The rain had eased off, and I used a compass bearing to get me from where I’d camped overnight back to the trail. As is usual for this section of the Whites Creek Trail, I lost the trail often, sometimes getting misled by game trails, and sometimes just my own mental aberrations. I used the compass and set my own track as I didn’t have time to waste. Sticking to the southern edge of the ridge proved to be a good ploy.

Whites Creek in February 2024. Copyright © 2024 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. I had made good time to the point where the trail drops down to White Creek, and then I somehow lost the plot, convinced myself I was going in the right direction, despite all the evidence — and the GPS — telling me I wasn’t! I went round in circles for a while until I stopped, looked at where I was, and got a compass bearing to where I wanted to be, and headed off, finally, in the right direction. Given my tight deadline to nightfall, I couldn’t afford to waste any time.
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Day Three — View from my hammock, rain and more rain

Day Three — View from my hammock. Whites Creek Trail, counter clockwise — December 2024. Copyright © 2024 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. It started raining early in the morning. Over seven hours of rain. I can’t complain, I knew it was in the forecast, and we need it.

Collecting water wasn’t a problem — I decided to wait until one PM before packing up. The rain was looking to stop around two. Whites Creek Trail, counter clockwise — December 2024. Copyright © 2024 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. I had a good, undisturbed night, and awoke to the sound of rain on my tarp. Heavy rain.
The forecast was for showers of around a tenth of an inch per hour. The reality was a lot heavier than that!
I didn’t fancy hiking in a downpour, and studying the weather radar (I had cell coverage on the top of the ridge), I could see it would ease off around 1-2 PM. I did some math, checked my notes from a previous hike of the trail, and reckoned that if I left at 2 PM, I could make it to Fiddler Spring before it got dark, though I’d have to move fairly quickly. No dallying on the way.
One good thing about the heavier-than-expected rain. It allowed me to top up my water reserves so I wouldn’t need to stop for water before I got to Fiddler Spring.
The only problem with this revised plan was that any delays would have me descending a treacherous and steep social trail in the dark. I decided that if I got delayed, I could wait the night out on the ridge above Fiddler Spring if necessary.
At 1 PM, I started the slow process of packing up camp under the tarp, and by 2 PM I was ready for the trail.
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Gary at the Eleven Point River Scenic Overlook, Irish Wilderness, December 2024

Gary at the Eleven Point River Scenic Overlook, Irish Wilderness — I must have moved, my beard is all blurred. Whites Creek Trail, counter clockwise — December 2024. Copyright © 2024 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. Lunch eaten, and water topped up, I headed along the trail and up on to the bluffs, which offer the only scenic overlook on the Whites Creek Trail, pictured above. From there it didn’t take me too long to get to the ridge overlooking Orchard Hollow. But there were no overlooks of the Eleven Point River to be had. I could have still camped at the end of the ridge, but several potential widow makers made up my mind to head back along the ridge and find somewhere else to stop. It would also cut down — ever so slightly — on my next day’s hike. I finally settled on a spot quite near to the trail, 4-500 yards or so.
I spent ages looking for a pair of ‘Golidlocks’ trees, at just the right angle to the forecast wind and rain. It was getting quite dark by the time I finally got my hammock set up for the night.
Day Two

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Eleven Point River Scenic Overlook, December 2024

Eleven Point River Scenic Overlook, Irish Wilderness — and the only overlook on the entire trail. Whites Creek Trail, counter clockwise — December 2024. Copyright © 2024 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. I had a lot of fun getting here. The Whites Creek Trail North Loop was tough to follow, and the downed trees across the trail made for many diversions.
Trail Journal:
1050 – Ready to go. 44°F
1115 – Bawley Pond jct. 3.9 miles – Bliss Spring.
1332 – Bliss Spring. Lost the trail many trees down. Hunters camped near the spring.
1430 – Back on the trail – with water.
Bliss Spring was very low but still running — I should have taken some pictures. I collected enough water for the night and tomorrow morning’s hike as far as Whites Creek. I’m not sure that there’ll be water in Fiddler Spring. If not, there will be water in the big pools along Whites Creek.
I saw the hunters’ camp while I was descending into Bliss Hollow. As I got near to the bottom, I saw one of them on the trail below me. I gave him a shout and checked he knew I was around. When I got to the bottom, we stopped to chat. There were two of them — brothers — They had hiked in from Brawley Pond that morning. He was hunting for squirrels for supper, and His brother was hunting deer on the south ridge of Bliss Hollow. I told him my plan to hike along the bluffs, follow the trail a short way, and then camp on the next ridge over, north of Orchard Hollow.
When I stopped at Bliss Spring to make lunch and collect water, I spent a bit of time rearranging the hunter orange on my pack to make it more visible. I must admit I was not expecting to encounter any hunters. My previous chats with people out hunting, had led me to believe that no one would want to carry a load of meat more than a mile or two. Lesson learned.
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Hammock Camping in Irish Wilderness

Hammock Camping in Irish Wilderness — Whites Creek Trail, counter clockwise — December 2024. Copyright © 2024 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. 
Hammock Camping in Irish Wilderness — Whites Creek Trail, counter clockwise — December 2024. Copyright © 2024 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. If you don’t like this view of the trees, then Irish Wilderness is probably not for you. The view of 90% of the Whites Creek Trail looks just like this.
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Day Two — Breakfast

Day Two — Breakfast. Whites Creek Trail, counter clockwise — December 2024. Copyright © 2024 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. 
Toe Socks. Copyright © 2024 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. Mountain House doesn’t appear to be shipping my favorite breakfast, the South West Breakfast Skillet, so for the foreseeable future, it’s going to be Biscuits and Gravy. I cannot eat any of the egg-based products; they make me violently ill, which is not good on the trail. Reading various blogs, etc. I’m not the only one with this issue. It’s not just Moutain House. I have the same problem with other brands. I now steer clear of any processed egg products.
I no longer drink tea or coffee — though I’ve not dropped caffeine entirely. I have ‘Dew O’clock’ every afternoon, and on the trail I carry caffeine pills.
The hot drink seen here is an orange and ginger infusion from Stash.
As usual, I’m heating my water on my Fancee Feest alcohol stove. And I’m using my boxed Firebox Nano wood stove to keep the alcohol burner off of the ground.
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Dawn, Day Two on the Whites Creek Trail

Start of Day Two. Whites Creek Trail, counter clockwise — December 2024. Copyright © 2024 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. I was up with the sunrise, not that sunrise is particularly early at the moment 🙂 The evening and night had not been without incident.
- Setting up my hammock, I noticed it was close to a big rock. I was checking that the very pointy rock wasn’t right under my back when I managed to, once more, fall out of the hammock. Okay, so that’s just amusing to any bystanders — I’m sure the squirrels were chuckling at my expense, except I landed on the rock, fortunately, not right in the middle of my back, but on my shoulder. It was quite tender and probably bruised, though I never checked.
- Later in the evening, I was lying in the hammock reading when I heard something approaching. For some unknown reason, I froze. That’s not happened before. Previously I’ve either shouted at or got out and shooed off any encroaching critters. In the dusk and dead of night, I’ve been nose-to-nose with deer and shouted at bumbling razor-back hogs and feral hogs. Freezing quite disconcerted me.
On reflection, I felt better when I remembered the posts of solo backpackers on the forums who wear earplugs at night so that they are oblivious to nearby critters. That’s something I don’t do. And then there are the people who flat-out refuse to go out solo backpacking for fear of the forest creatures. - Finally, in the middle of the night, some alpha doe took exception to my camp and started huffing (barking is the proper term) and stomping around in a failed attempt to drive me away. That amused me, they always seem to do this during the deer hunting season!
It was 41°F when I set up camp, and it dropped to 37°F overnight. I was nice and warm with my summer quilts.
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Dusk in Irish Wilderness

Dusk in Irish Wilderness. Copyright © 2024 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. A couple of hours later and I’d left the trail in search of a spot to stop for the night. It was just about to get dark as I selected some suitable trees for my hammock.
It’s the first time I’ve hiked the Whites Creek Trail this soon after the leaves have dropped. As I expected, it was tough following the trail in places. It also looks like a big storm passed through at some point since my last visit. There were a lot of big trees down over the trail.
I was happy with my progress, I had crossed Whites Creek, which was dry, and climbed back up onto the ridge, which was my objective for the day. I carried on for a while before the impending sunset decided me to head off and find a spot to camp.
Day One

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Camp Five Pond, Irish Wilderness. December 2024
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Camp Five Pond, Irish Wilderness. December 2024
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Gary at the Camp Five Pond Trailhead, Irish Wilderness

Gary at the Camp Five Pond Trailhead, Irish Wilderness. Whites Creek Trail, counter clockwise — December 2024. Copyright © 2024 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. It’s late in the day (14:30), and I’m carrying 4 liters of water. I want to get around four miles in and camp set up before it gets dark, in about three hours.
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It’s a two-and-a-half-hour drive to Irish Wilderness from Springfield
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Prepping for a four-day hike in Irish Wilderness

Food for four days — Whites Creek Trail, counter clockwise — December 2024. Copyright © 2024 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. There’s a break in the weather and even some rain in the forecast. Tomorrow I’m driving the two-and-a-half hours east to Irish Wilderness where I’ll hike the Whites Creek Trail counter-clockwise, and I’m going to take a leisurely four days to do it.

Food all bagged up — and my trail snacks for Day One. Whites Creek Trail, counter clockwise — December 2024. Copyright © 2024 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. In the picture above there are three breakfasts, four sets of trail snacks, four lunches, and three dinners. Spot the missing items …
There should have been three packs of Pop-Tarts, I’ll rue that omission, I love my daily Pop-Tart with breakfast, and at the end of the day as a dessert after dinner.
The Plan
- Day One. Will be a late start, so I’ll hike the North Loop for around four miles and camp wherever I end up. My only objective is to get past the first crossing of Whites Creek. There won’t be any water on the trail, so I’ll be carrying all I need for the night.
- Day Two. Continue the North Loop down to Bliss Spring and onward past the bluffs before going off trail to check out a ridge that may offer some views of the Eleven Point River, and that’s where I plan to camp. Again, I’m going to have to carry my night’s supply of water in with me.
- Day Three. Transition to the South Loop and make camp in what looked to be a promising spot near Fiddler Spring. This will be the worst day weather-wise with rain showers forecast for most of the day.
- Day Four. Hike the remainder of the South Loop back to the trailhead (5.8 miles).

The above image is courtesy of my subscription to windy.com (Check out the free version, it is the best weather site I’ve found. If you are a weather nerd, subscribe! I’m not an affiliate; I just want to see them prosper).
Gear
The temperatures are forecast to be in the forties to fifties. I’ll be fine with my summer quilts and tarp, backed up by winter clothing in case it turns chilly. This is good, as it’ll lower the weight and pack space, leaving room for extra water to be carried on a couple of days.
The last time I hiked this trail, I had AFIB on the last day. This time, I’m upping my hydration program, which should help address that. Hopefully, all the time I’ve been putting in at the gym will also help with those big climbs up onto the ridges that the Whites Creek Trail has.
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Christmas Table Decoration
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Journal: Getting outside my comfort zone, Paddy Creek Wilderness, December 2024

Things have conspired to keep me off the trails this year. I’m hiking the Big Piney Trail in Paddy Creek Wilderness to get some trail time. But the daytime temps on two days will be below freezing. I’ll be pushing my comfort zone as I don’t normally venture out if the daytime temperature is going to drop below 40°F.
For details of my trip
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Frozen stock pond

Frozen stock pond. Big Piney Trail — December 2024. Copyright © 2024 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. That’s the last picture from this trip. I arrived back at the trailhead at four twenty, around forty minutes before sunset. In total, three days, two nights, 18.7 miles, and 1,700 ft. climbed.
And by the way, the sunset proved to be spectacular as I drove home.

Note: None of the links below are affiliate links.
What Worked
- Shelter. I took my winter tarp, which has doors, and it worked well to keep the wind out and the heat in.
- Clothing. My standard winter set up was fine and kept me warm. My feet were fine in the sandals, and I had borrowed a pair of gloves from Ginger (I’ve misplaced mine somewhere).
- Food and Cooking. My Fancee Feest alcohol Cat Can stove worked flawlessly at all temperatures. I took my wood stove but didn’t use it except as a base for the Fancee Feest stove. I had plenty of food, though some summer sausage would have been nice. My food bag was crammed a bit full with all my supplies.
- Electronics. I have to confess to bringing along a light string. It worked well, but I’m not sure I want to waste time carefully coiling it up when it is below freezing. The Kindle App on my phone/GPS provided hours of reading to get me through the long dark nights.
- Navigating by compass. I find it much quicker to follow than the GPS, though I get the original bearing from my GPS software.
- Weather forecast. windy.com is a truly wonderful App. I screen grab and print out the summary to keep in my trail journal along with printed maps of the area I am in.

Leather Backpacking Journal — Field Notes notebook in a leather binder, showing a printed Windy.com weather forecast and trail maps. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. Lessons Learned
The first and probably most important lesson I learned was that hiking in temps below my comfort zone, that is, mid-twenties vs mid-forties, is fine. I’ve already slept out in my hammock in temps down to 15°F — and been too hot in the night, so that wasn’t a concern.
Short days mean not a lot of time hiking. Especially when it’s cold (I find), getting started is slow, as is packing up and setting up camp. It’s better to stick with clear trails and known campsites to speed things up and make setting up camp in the dark easier (watch me ignore this lesson on my next backpacking trip).
Crossing the near waist-deep Big Paddy Creek was cold and marginally okay with the temps in the late fifties. It took a couple of hours for my body heat to dry out my shorts. Had it been windy, I had a change of clothes available. But. If I’d looked harder, I could have found an easier place to cross where only my feet would have got wet. I need to check more thoroughly in the future.
Keeping my water from freezing is going to be a big issue if I continue to hike in sub-freezing conditions. I’m going to research insulated water containers, and how others deal with the issue. This wouldn’t be so much of a problem if there was more running water in the wildernesses. Heigh Ho! We are in a drought, and it is what it is.
Be more careful when hiking with your wrists through the wrist-loops of your hiking poles. I tripped on a tree root on a dry creek bed crossing. Once the immediate shock passed, I laughed out loud at my predicament. I fell on top of my hiking poles and was pinned to the ground by my wrists. It took me a few moments to work out how to get up. I’m lucky I didn’t break my hiking poles in the process.
I found using a compass to navigate in the forest is much easier than trying to use the GPS.
Winter clothing list
- Bedrock Sandals. My ‘go-to’ hiking huaraches.
- Wool toe socks. My feet were perfectly comfy at the 20°F temps I encountered. I also carry a spare pair in case they get wet.
- Undies. I take one spare pair of undies in case the pair I’m wearing get wet. I didn’t change them on this trip even though the pair I was wearing got soaked crossing Big Paddy Creek.
- Bass Pro waffle base layer top and bottom. I have Merino base layers, but I don’t use them nowadays as they are bulkier and heavier than the less expensive Bass Pro option. I also find that the Bass Pro base layers are warmer. Most of the time, I don’t use the top, but I carry it in case my hiking shirt gets wet.
- Columbia snow pants. I’ve had these for over ten years. The waterproof coating no longer works, but the wide legs make pulling them on over shoes nice and easy — an excellent advantage in cold weather.
- Running/Gym shorts. For that one warm day…
- Merino wool shirt (it was sold as a base layer). I wear it 24 x 7 while backpacking.
- Puffy jackets. I took along my well-worn orange Columbia down jacket, which I bought second (or maybe third) hand, and my black Backcountry down hoody jacket, which is really long and keeps my head and backside warm. I carry two down jackets because the Columbia jacket (14oz.) is more compressible and lighter than the other option, a fleece.
- Shemagh & Buff(s). I never go backpacking without them. Highly recommended.
- Bandana. Used as a handkerchief and hot-pot holder.
- Rain jacket. My lightweight Lightheart gear rain jacket I use this to layer up and keep the wind out.
- My latest hat. It keeps the sun out of my eyes, plus a hunter orange beanie — it’s deer hunting season — and another beanie for bedtime.
Will I go backpacking in sub-freezing daytime temperatures again? Yes, if I can find trails with running water and long enough hikes to keep me occupied during the day.
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Keeping my feet warm at 26°F

Keeping my feet warm at 26°F. Big Piney Trail — December 2024. Copyright © 2024 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. A change of plan
The social trail I was following disappeared very quickly. Rather than return to the North Loop, I worked out the compass heading to get me straight to ‘Spring Hollow’ and bushwhacked my way straight to it. It’s a trick I’m using more often now. It saves wasting time playing hunt the trail.
When I arrived at ‘Spring Hollow’ I decided that it was too early to stop. I didn’t want to spend the afternoon sitting around in 26°F temps. I considered carrying on to where the short cut crosses Little Paddy Creek. But that’s only a mile, mile-and-a-half further on, so again a long wait in the cold.
Instead, I decided to hike the five or six miles back to the trailhead and go home. I ought to be able to finish the trip before it gets dark.
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Frost Flower
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A bed of frost flowers
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Wrapped up warm for a cold hike

Wrapped up warm for a cold hike. Big Piney Trail — December 2024. Copyright © 2024 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. I’m going off in search of a trail that I’m sure runs from where I’m camped near Little Paddy Creek to the North Loop. Then I plan to look for a better campsite at ‘Spring Hollow’.
The darned cell phone camera lens always makes my hats look all squiffy, and my chops look chubby.









