Getting outside my comfort zone, Paddy Creek Wilderness. December 2024

  • Frost Flower, Paddy Creek Wilderness

    Frost Flower — When the frost flowers are still out at One PM you know it’s been cold. Big Piney Trail — December 2024. Copyright © 2024 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

    It’s time to get out of my comfort zone

    On this trip, I will challenge my normal limits and see how it goes.

    The weather, mid-west drought, and personal/business commitments have reduced the amount of backpacking I’ve done this year. I decided to hike the Big Piney Trail in Paddy Creek Wilderness to get a few more miles in before the year’s end. The daytime temps on two days were forecast to be below freezing. This will be interesting, as I don’t normally venture out if the daytime temperature drops below 40°F. The predicted overnight temps also push my self-imposed limits (20°F nighttime minimum).

    It’s not that I don’t have the gear for the cold weather. It’s that I don’t see the point of sitting around for extended periods in the cold, especially as it is dark now from around five-thirty pm to seven am.

    On this trip, I will challenge my normal limits and see how it goes.

    The Plan

    Day One. I will hike from the trailhead, starting on the South Loop, and take the shortcut to the North Loop to get to ‘Spring Hollow.’ I’m fairly confident there will be water there.

    Day Two. Hike from ‘Spring Hollow’ around the North Loop to the Big Paddy Creek scenic overlook, and on to the South Loop and camp at a campsite I found a while back near Little Paddy Creek. Little Paddy Creek always seems to have water below the shortcut crossing, so that’s good. This is going to be a warm day — Yay! Followed by a cold night — Boo!

    Day Three: Hike to ‘Paddy Creek Trolltunga‘ and spend the night there. It will be a cold day — the daytime temperatures will be in the mid-twenties.

    Day Four. Hike out. Again, it’s going to be cold with temps just around freezing.

    Weather: Windy.com. Check it out. It is the best weather App we’ve found.

    As for my gear, I’ll take my winter tarp, quilts, and lots of food and fuel. I’ve decided to stick with sandals for this trip to see how they work out in the cold. I’m leaving my chair behind to reduce weight for when I’ll need to carry water for my night at ‘Trolltunga’.

    Day One

    I managed to get to the trailhead by midday, I’d hit some delays because a local bridge was closed (only for a week), and there were no posted detours. The route I picked to get around it was longer than necessary.

    There were two Forest Service vehicles in the Roby Lake Trailhead parking lot. Once on the trail, I soon met the Forest Ranger and a couple of guys returning to the vehicles. I quizzed the ranger on the availability of water — Not a lot — and the state of the trail at the Big Paddy Creek Crossing as a month ago, there had been major flooding (ironic in the middle of a drought). I expected the trail to be a horrendous mess at the bottom of the ridge where it meets Big Paddy Creek. The ranger’s knowledge was limited to the fact that they currently had workers at the nearby campground removing silt and debris from flooding at the site. I’d have to find out the state of the trail for myself when I got there.

    From the junction of the North and South loops, I set off along the South Loop and spotted the above Frost Flower by the trail. The trail was easy going with a couple of promising signs of water. However, when I got to the first crossing of Little Paddy Creek there was no water. Fingers crossed there will be water downstream and at my destination for tonight.

  • Yuccas at the abandoned homestead

    Yuccas at the abandoned homestead. You know you are getting near the old homestead when you start seeing the yuccas. Big Piney Trail — December 2024. Copyright © 2024 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

    I arrived at the homestead and short cut trail junction around two-thirty. The two wells on this part of the trail were half full, again promising water would be available in the lower reaches of Little Paddy Creek.

    The low, high contrast light made for a dramatic picture of the yuccas.

  • More Frost Flowers

    More Frost Flowers. And it is now three PM. Big Piney Trail — December 2024. Copyright © 2024 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

    I saw these Frost Flowers near the abandoned homestead.

    There was water in Little Paddy Creek at the Short Cut Crossing, but the recent rain had scoured it out, making the crossing look quite deep. A few yards downstream I found a point to cross with (relatively) dry feet.

    There was no water in the creek at the point I call ‘Three Creeks Crossing’ at the start of the trail I’ve recently discovered is called the Paddy Creek Ridge Spur.

    I kept on heading down the North Loop, and it was four-fifteen when I arrived at my stop for the night in ‘Spring Hollow.’ The temperature was now 35°F. I’d hiked just short of seven miles.

  • Day Two – Camped in ‘Spring Hollow’

    Day Two – Camped in ‘Spring Hollow’ — Big Piney Trail, December 2024. Copyright © 2024 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

    The Wilderness is very dry. Little Paddy Creek was dry where I first crossed it, and it was the lowest I’ve seen it when I crossed it on the shortcut between the South and North loops. It was good to find that the spring here was still running quite well, as I was relying on it for my overnight water supply.

    It was 21°F when I got up. I didn’t bother checking the overnight temperature. I’d been nice and toasty, and reading a book on the Kindle App on my phone kept me busy until lights out.

  • View from my hammock, with a hot drink in hand

    View from my hammock, with a hot drink in hand. And the water is boiling to heat up my Biscuits and Gravy for breakfast. Big Piney Trail — December 2024. Copyright © 2024 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.
  • Big Paddy Creek Scenic Overlook

    Big Paddy Creek Scenic Overlook. Big Piney Trail — December 2024. Copyright © 2024 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

    I love this spot and stopped for a bite to eat before embarking on what I reckoned was going to be a difficult time on the trail at the bottom of the ridge. The area flooded recently, and no doubt the trail will be messed up.

    I made good time getting here, about an hour-and-a-half or so. I didn’t start out until eleven-twenty.

  • Gary at the Big Paddy Creek Scenic Overlook

    Gary at the Big Paddy Creek Scenic Overlook. Big Piney Trail — December 2024. Copyright © 2024 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.
  • Enjoying the view and some lunch

    Enjoying the view and some lunch. Big Piney Trail — December 2024. Copyright © 2024 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

    Today is the only day warm enough for shorts! It’s in the mid-fifties, but quite windy, so no sitting around cooling off for too long.

  • The trail’s a mess at the bottom of the ridge

    The trail’s a mess at the bottom of the ridge, but I made good time until … Until I got to the Big Paddy Creek Crossing that is. Big Piney Trail — December 2024. Copyright © 2024 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.
  • The Big Paddy Creek Crossing has been washed out

    The Big Paddy Creek Crossing has been washed out. Big Piney Trail — December 2024. Copyright © 2024 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

    The crossing has been washed out in the flood, but I crossed here anyway. It was deep and cold. How deep? Well, my trail journal in my pocket got wet.

    It is just as well it was a warmer day today. This would not have been fun with the temperatures in the twenties.

    There’s what looks to be a much shallower and drier point to cross 30 – 50 yards upstream.

  • A better place to cross

    A better place to cross. Big Piney Trail — December 2024. Copyright © 2024 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

    Climbing down the bank here, about 10 yards west, to cross Big Paddy Creek would have been the clever thing to do. But when I was scouting for a good crossing point, I didn’t see it. So, I crossed the hard (and cold) way.

  • There are a lot of trees down across the trail

    There are a lot of trees down across the trail. Big Piney Trail — December 2024. Copyright © 2024 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

    Despite all the downed trees and obstructions, I made good time to my planned campsite, arriving at three-fifteen. But I was not too fond of the spot, as the only trees suitable to hang my hammock from were right next to the fire ring. I spent about an hour looking for an alternate place to spend the night. It was getting dark by the time I’d finished I’d settled on a spot and set up camp, ready for what promised to be a cold night.

  • Day Three — Slushy water bottle

    Day Three — Slushy water bottle. Big Piney Trail — December 2024. Copyright © 2024 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

    It dropped to around 19°F overnight, and my water pouch froze. When I got up it was 21°F, and the forecast (which was correct) is for it to not go above 26°F.

    My plan had been to load up with water and camp at ‘Paddy Creek Trolltunga’. However, I realized that I’d have a lot of trouble keeping all that water from freezing during the 26°F day, and even lower temperatures at night.

    Looking at the map, I thought I’d try to follow a ‘Social Trail’ that passed nearby and ought to head north-west to the North Loop; I could then try to find a better campsite overlooking ‘Spring Hollow.’ Or I could go and camp near where the shortcut crosses Little Paddy Creek. The water in both places was running and wouldn’t freeze, so I’d have no water issues.

  • Imagine a hammock between those two trees

    Imagine a hammock between those two trees. Because I forgot to take a picture before I took the tarp and hammock down. Oh well, I wasn’t going to put it up again just for a picture. Big Piney Trail — December 2024. Copyright © 2024 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.
  • Wrapped up warm for a cold hike

    Wrapped up warm for a cold hike. Big Piney Trail — December 2024. Copyright © 2024 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

    I’m going off in search of a trail that I’m sure runs from where I’m camped near Little Paddy Creek to the North Loop. Then I plan to look for a better campsite at ‘Spring Hollow’.

    The darned cell phone camera lens always makes my hats look all squiffy, and my chops look chubby.

  • A bed of frost flowers

    A bed of frost flowers. Big Piney Trail — December 2024. Copyright © 2024 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

    What is it with all the frost flowers I am seeing on this trip? The conditions must be just right for them.

  • Frost Flower

    Frost Flower. Big Piney Trail — December 2024. Copyright © 2024 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.
  • Keeping my feet warm at 26°F

    Keeping my feet warm at 26°F. Big Piney Trail — December 2024. Copyright © 2024 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

    A change of plan

    The social trail I was following disappeared very quickly. Rather than return to the North Loop, I worked out the compass heading to get me straight to ‘Spring Hollow’ and bushwhacked my way straight to it. It’s a trick I’m using more often now. It saves wasting time playing hunt the trail.

    When I arrived at ‘Spring Hollow’ I decided that it was too early to stop. I didn’t want to spend the afternoon sitting around in 26°F temps. I considered carrying on to where the short cut crosses Little Paddy Creek. But that’s only a mile, mile-and-a-half further on, so again a long wait in the cold.

    Instead, I decided to hike the five or six miles back to the trailhead and go home. I ought to be able to finish the trip before it gets dark.

  • Frozen stock pond

    Frozen stock pond. Big Piney Trail — December 2024. Copyright © 2024 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

    That’s the last picture from this trip. I arrived back at the trailhead at four twenty, around forty minutes before sunset. In total, three days, two nights, 18.7 miles, and 1,700 ft. climbed.

    And by the way, the sunset proved to be spectacular as I drove home.

    Note: None of the links below are affiliate links.

    What Worked

    • Shelter. I took my winter tarp, which has doors, and it worked well to keep the wind out and the heat in.
    • Clothing. My standard winter set up was fine and kept me warm. My feet were fine in the sandals, and I had borrowed a pair of gloves from Ginger (I’ve misplaced mine somewhere).
    • Food and Cooking. My Fancee Feest alcohol Cat Can stove worked flawlessly at all temperatures. I took my wood stove but didn’t use it except as a base for the Fancee Feest stove. I had plenty of food, though some summer sausage would have been nice. My food bag was crammed a bit full with all my supplies.
    • Electronics. I have to confess to bringing along a light string. It worked well, but I’m not sure I want to waste time carefully coiling it up when it is below freezing. The Kindle App on my phone/GPS provided hours of reading to get me through the long dark nights.
    • Navigating by compass. I find it much quicker to follow than the GPS, though I get the original bearing from my GPS software.
    • Weather forecast. windy.com is a truly wonderful App. I screen grab and print out the summary to keep in my trail journal along with printed maps of the area I am in.
    Photograph of a Leather Backpacking Journal, with Field Notes notebook and printed weather forecast.
    Leather Backpacking Journal — Field Notes notebook in a leather binder, showing a printed Windy.com weather forecast and trail maps. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

    Lessons Learned

    The first and probably most important lesson I learned was that hiking in temps below my comfort zone, that is, mid-twenties vs mid-forties, is fine. I’ve already slept out in my hammock in temps down to 15°F — and been too hot in the night, so that wasn’t a concern.

    Short days mean not a lot of time hiking. Especially when it’s cold (I find), getting started is slow, as is packing up and setting up camp. It’s better to stick with clear trails and known campsites to speed things up and make setting up camp in the dark easier (watch me ignore this lesson on my next backpacking trip).

    Crossing the near waist-deep Big Paddy Creek was cold and marginally okay with the temps in the late fifties. It took a couple of hours for my body heat to dry out my shorts. Had it been windy, I had a change of clothes available. But. If I’d looked harder, I could have found an easier place to cross where only my feet would have got wet. I need to check more thoroughly in the future.

    Keeping my water from freezing is going to be a big issue if I continue to hike in sub-freezing conditions. I’m going to research insulated water containers, and how others deal with the issue. This wouldn’t be so much of a problem if there was more running water in the wildernesses. Heigh Ho! We are in a drought, and it is what it is.

    Be more careful when hiking with your wrists through the wrist-loops of your hiking poles. I tripped on a tree root on a dry creek bed crossing. Once the immediate shock passed, I laughed out loud at my predicament. I fell on top of my hiking poles and was pinned to the ground by my wrists. It took me a few moments to work out how to get up. I’m lucky I didn’t break my hiking poles in the process.

    I found using a compass to navigate in the forest is much easier than trying to use the GPS.

    Winter clothing list

    • Bedrock Sandals. My ‘go-to’ hiking huaraches.
    • Wool toe socks. My feet were perfectly comfy at the 20°F temps I encountered. I also carry a spare pair in case they get wet.
    • Undies. I take one spare pair of undies in case the pair I’m wearing get wet. I didn’t change them on this trip even though the pair I was wearing got soaked crossing Big Paddy Creek.
    • Bass Pro waffle base layer top and bottom. I have Merino base layers, but I don’t use them nowadays as they are bulkier and heavier than the less expensive Bass Pro option. I also find that the Bass Pro base layers are warmer. Most of the time, I don’t use the top, but I carry it in case my hiking shirt gets wet.
    • Columbia snow pants. I’ve had these for over ten years. The waterproof coating no longer works, but the wide legs make pulling them on over shoes nice and easy — an excellent advantage in cold weather.
    • Running/Gym shorts. For that one warm day…
    • Merino wool shirt (it was sold as a base layer). I wear it 24 x 7 while backpacking.
    • Puffy jackets. I took along my well-worn orange Columbia down jacket, which I bought second (or maybe third) hand, and my black Backcountry down hoody jacket, which is really long and keeps my head and backside warm. I carry two down jackets because the Columbia jacket (14oz.) is more compressible and lighter than the other option, a fleece.
    • Shemagh & Buff(s). I never go backpacking without them. Highly recommended.
    • Bandana. Used as a handkerchief and hot-pot holder.
    • Rain jacket. My lightweight Lightheart gear rain jacket I use this to layer up and keep the wind out.
    • My latest hat. It keeps the sun out of my eyes, plus a hunter orange beanie — it’s deer hunting season — and another beanie for bedtime.

    Will I go backpacking in sub-freezing daytime temperatures again? Yes, if I can find trails with running water and long enough hikes to keep me occupied during the day.

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