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Journal: Exploring some old trails, Irish Wilderness, April 2025

Time for a change of strategy. Reviewing my last backpacking trip (See Breakfast in America: Berryman Trail revisited, March 2025), I concluded that I’d been putting a lot more emphasis on crushing miles as quickly as possible recently and not taking the time to slow down and enjoy the wilderness. My plan for the trip was different. Besides this Whites Creek Trail, there are many trails marked on the USGS map. I dedicated the trip to exploring a couple of them, looking for water sources, and seeking another campsite overlooking the Eleven Point River.
For details of this trip
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The trailhead parking lot was a bit crowded

The trailhead parking lot was a bit crowded — it makes a change to find someone else at this trailhead. Irish Wilderness, April 2025. Copyright © 2025 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. Trip over. I had spent three nights in the wilderness and hiked over sixteen miles. And a large number of those miles were spent bushwhacking. I confirmed two water sources and a couple of old, but new to me, trails.
Maps & Stats
Day One

Day Two

Day Three

Day Four

End of hike thoughts

Holy Grail — a campsite with a view overlooking the Eleven Point River. Copyright © 2024 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. It was a good, enjoyable hike with no major issues. I didn’t even need the first aid kit, which makes a change after the last couple of hikes. I’ve definitely got some more exploring to do south of the Whites Creek Trail. There’s a hint on the maps that there might be some more old homestead ruins to be seen.
I reckon I’ve already found the best campsite overlooking the Eleven Point River, but without checking every ridge I’ll not be sure. Maybe that’s a target for next winter.
What worked
It seems I’ve got everything pretty well dialed in. I’m still looking to lighten my pack weight, but thus far, all I’ve managed to do is nibble away a few grammes while I cannot part with some of the heavier items.
- Peak Refuel dehydrated food. Overall, it was tasty, used less water than the Mountain House meals, and seemed to fill me up more.
- Taking water from a pond. In fifteen plus years hiking in the Ozarks (and elsewhere), I’ve not taken water from a stationary water source, unless you count Table Rock Lake. The water from both the ponds I encountered, filtered and treated, was fine if a little tannin colored.
- 10°F Under quilt and cold weather clothing. It was very nice to be warm right through the night on the coldest day of the trip. The mornings and evening were also chilly, and I was pleased to have layers to put on as it got colder.
- My pre-trip research. Spending time pouring over the maps on gaiagps.com and studying the aerial views over time on Google Earth certainly paid off. In particular looking at the older maps hinted at where more prominent trails might still exist today.
- GPS and Compass. Getting a bearing to a waypoint from the GPS and then using the compass to keep me on track has worked well over the years and did so on this trip too. There’s another technique you can use, where you go in the general direction you want until you hit a geographic feature — like a creek — to get a rough position fix. I find the Ozarks woodland so samey that I do not use that method, unless there is a ‘whack you round the ears,’ unmistakable and obvious feature to use.
What didn’t work, and what I didn’t use
- GPS and Compass. There appears to be a disagreement between my Suunto compass and my phone’s onboard compass. I paused writing this to run some tests, and discovered the Phone is between 15°-5° off, even after I recalibrated it. Just as well I don’t use my phone’s compass for navigating. Hopefully the GPS software doesn’t either. There is a 2°-5+° error in my compass, but further investigation found that to be down to me — see the Updates below
- Ground sheet. As an experiment, I didn’t use it, and I didn’t miss it. Next to zero weight saved, but it does take up space in my pack’s back pocket.
- Camp Light. I didn’t take my camp light, and I didn’t miss it. That’s a few ounces saved.
- Wood Stove. Yes I took it again. See below for what I’ve learned.
Lessons
- Using a creek marked on the map as a way point. Yeah, the creek didn’t exist anymore.
- Check you are following the correct GPS route. It didn’t do any harm, but I followed a route I’d set which led away from my campsite, when I should have been going back to my campsite. That was a rooky mistake. Zooming out and checking the map would have caught the error.
- If you value your sleep and your hearing, don’t stop too near to a body of water in the spring!
- I realized why I’m not using my wood stove. I’m taking far too much alcohol fuel (a full winter loadout), which results in me being lazy and not lighting the wood stove. I can save weight by switching back to my warm season fuel bottle.
- Using the GPS for navigation there’s another area where errors can be introduced. Which is down to the accuracy of where I place the pins, and where within the pin image the actual coordinates lie. I’ve always assumed the bottom center of the image, but if it’s the center, then some fairly large errors can be introduced (some research is required).
I managed to get everywhere I planned for this trip, and despite the disappointment of not finding another Eleven Point River Overlook campsite, successfully bushwhacking my way around and discovering ‘new to me’ trails was well worth the effort.
I’m already thinking about the possibility of fitting in another trip before the vegetation, heat, and ticks get too out of hand.
Updates
- May 2025 — Compass. The problem with the compass was obvious, and a total ‘I could kick myself’ user error. My watch induces a 2°-5+° deviation to the left. The solution is simple: don’t hold the compass in my left hand … D’oh! It took me far too long to work that one out.
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Back at the trail junction

Back at the trail junction — After three days spent exploring south of the Whites Creek Trail South Loop. Irish Wilderness, April 2025. Copyright © 2025 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. I had packed up camp and was on my way shortly before eleven-thirty. The hike started with my bushwhacking back to the trail and then heading east. There was a trail shown on the map that led from the trail I was on a few hundred yards to the east. I had my suspicions that the well-maintained trail I was on wouldn’t be going the way I wanted. And so it was.
I hunted around for the junction of the trail I wanted, and couldn’t find it, so I took a compass bearing (60°E) and off I went. After a lot of slow bushwhacking, the trail finally made an appearance, and I followed it until it joined the Whites Creek Trail. After having some lunch, I went on my way, and thirty minutes later, I was at the trail junction. My hike was almost over.
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Hammock camping in Irish Wilderness, April 2025
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Trail food for the day

Trail food for the day. Irish Wilderness, April 2025. Copyright © 2025 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. Typical food for the day:
- Protein bar.
- Trail Mix (almonds, M&Ms, raisins, roasted peanuts).
- Pre-cooked bacon rashers.
- Drinks and medication (Electrolytes, caffein pills, Orange and Ginger tea, and my noon pill).
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Breakfast
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Evening light

Evening light — overlooking the pond from my hammock, Irish Wilderness, April 2025. Copyright © 2025 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. I had set up camp a hundred yards from the pond. I figured the water would attract a few animals, and I wanted to be far enough away not to disturb the wildlife coming for a nocturnal drink.
I’ve been backpacking in the Ozarks for fifteen or so years. You would think that I would have remembered that water plus Spring equals peepers and other very noisy critters.
Nope.
As night closed in they became deafening. I have a sound meter app on my phone, and it recorded a maximum sound level of 80db. That’s the equivalent of loud music according to the app.
Fortunately, I always pack some earplugs (in case an opportunity for some target practice arises). Although I was reluctant to forego the loss of my ‘situational awareness,’ my desire for sleep won, and I put them in. Bliss.
They kept up their racket all night, only stopping at sunrise, at which point they handed the baton of noise to the woodpeckers, who busily drummed their way through the morning.
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Getting water for the night
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Woodland pond in the last of the day’s sun
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As seen on Google Earth

As seen on Google Earth. Irish Wilderness, April 2025. Copyright © 2025 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. I’d spotted something long and white on the ground in the woods on Google Earth. After I’d set up camp, I went to investigate it. It was a downed tree (just as I suspected).
Bushwhacking to this spot was okay, but there were a lot of downed trees to negotiate.
Heading back to camp, I made a silly navigational blunder… Fortunately, my navigational ‘Spidey sense’ kicked in after a short while, …
Heading back to camp, I made a silly navigational blunder. In getting ready for this trip, I’d prepared a route to this point from the pond, and as I had originally planned to set up a basecamp on the ridge, I’d plotted a different, more direct route back.
I had the GPS screen zoomed in and mistakenly took my compass bearing from the pre-planned return route, and not back to where I was actually camped. Oops. Fortunately, my navigational ‘Spidey sense’ kicked in after a short while, and checking my location and direction again, I realized my mistake.
Oh well, I had nothing else to do, and the extra bit of hiking didn’t harm me.
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At the top of a very marshy area, a dammed pond

At the top of a very marshy area a dammed pond — All the recent rain seems to have topped it up. Irish Wilderness, April 2025. Copyright © 2025 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. It didn’t take me long to find the second potential water source I’d identified on the map. The map shows a creek running down from here, the reality is that there is just a wide marshy hollow. I hiked past the hollow because I was looking for a creek crossing the trail. A quick check of the GPS put me right.
It’s difficult to tell how big this pond is in normal circumstances, but judging by the bushes I saw, it’s pretty small. I wandered around a bit before deciding to camp on the north side.
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Signs of recent trail maintenance

The trail had been recently cleared — Exploring south of the Whites Creek Trail, South Loop. Irish Wilderness, April 2025. Copyright © 2025 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. I have noticed this before. The ‘less official’ trails are frequently in better condition than the official trails. I wish the North Loop Trail was this clear and easy to follow.
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Camped overlooking Slash Bay Hollow

First Breakfast — Camped overlooking Slash Bay Hollow, Irish Wilderness, April 2025. Copyright © 2025 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. Getting here wasn’t easy. This was not the open woodland I’d encountered earlier yesterday. There was dense undergrowth and lots of trees down. It was challenging hiking. Then the final big disappointment was that there were no decent views of the Eleven Point River, and a dearth of suitable trees in safe spots to hang my hammock.
I ended up hiking back towards the trail until I found a spot I fancied on the south (Slash Bay Hollow) side of the ridge.
In the morning, I woke up to the sound of chainsaws and heavy equipment to the south. I couldn’t tell which side of the Eleven Point River the noise was coming from. That disruption to my peace and quiet decided me to change my plans for the day.
I was originally planning on establishing a basecamp here and going to look at another potential water source I had seen on the map, also, there was a mysterious object I had spotted on Google Earth that I wanted to investigate, a long straight white line, probably just a downed tree out in the open. With all the noise and the lack of a decent view, I decided to abandon the basecamp idea and shift camp to wherever I ended up today.
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Ooh! I found a well-maintained and clear trail

Ooh! I found a well-maintained and clear trail. Exploring south of the Whites Creek Trail South Loop. Irish Wilderness, April 2025. Copyright © 2025 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. This bodes well for my plans for this trip. Although this trail is in excellent condition, I’ve still got a mile or so of bushwhacking to look forward to, to get to the end of the ridge I want to camp on. Nowt for it other than to press on.
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Open woodland
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I found a pond

I found a pond — exactly where I expected one to be. Exploring south of the Whites Creek Trail South Loop. Irish Wilderness, April 2025. Copyright © 2025 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. I spent half an hour bushwhacking to get here, and part of my route went through a stand of shortleaf pines I nicknamed ‘Catbrier Hell,’ you can guess why. Checking out this possible water source was my first objective for the day. I had spotted the depression and potential water source on the USGS map. Was it filled in and dry? Fortunately, not, and the recent rain appears to have filled the pond. Judging by the vegetation, it holds water for a significant portion of the year.
I stopped to have lunch, and I topped up my water with some of the tannin (and tadpole) rich water from the pond.
Next, I was heading off searching for my second objective for the day, a trail marked on the USGS map. Did the trail still exist? I had no idea, but having secured a water source, my final objective for the day was the Holy Grail of a campsite with good views overlooking the Eleven Point River on the ridge between Stillhouse and Slash Bay Hollows. If the trail didn’t exist, or I couldn’t find it, I would have to bushwhack the entire way, another couple of miles.
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Looking back down the trail to Fiddler Spring

Looking back down the trail to Fiddler Spring — The trail drops very steeply down to Fiddler Spring. So steep you can’t see the trail from here. Irish Wilderness, April 2025. Copyright © 2025 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. This is the start of the ‘Social’ trail heading down to Fiddler Spring. I was camped on the ridge in the distance to the right last night. This bit of trail is very steep, so steep that you can’t see the rest of the trail from this point, which I thought made for a more dramatic picture (probably not).
I find going down this trail is more difficult than coming up, but it’s tough and fairly dodgy going in either direction. It might be a tough climb, but looking at the timing of my pictures, it only took six minutes to get here from Fiddler Spring. This point is below the official Whites Creek Trail, so more uphill work still to be done.
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Fiddler Spring, Irish Wilderness, April 2025
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Established primitive campsite near Fiddler Spring

Established primitive campsite near Fiddler Spring. Irish Wilderness, April 2025. Copyright © 2025 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. Someone has been able to clear this site up. The left behind tarps and crates have gone. With the wildflowers the site was looking much better. I was just passing through to fill up with water at the spring and then climb my way up onto the ridge on the right.
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Camped overlooking Whites Creek near Fiddler Spring

Camped overlooking Whites Creek near Fiddler Spring. Irish Wilderness, April 2025. Copyright © 2025 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. I’m not keen on the existing primitive campsite at Fiddler Spring — I saw that it had been cleaned up a lot as I passed by, but there’s no morning or evening sunshine, and it’s on the trail. I bushwhacked my way to Whites Creek, waded across, and then climbed up the ridge until I found a couple of trees I liked the look of to hang my hammock on.









