• Bliss Spring (& a late lunch!)

    Bliss Spring — just a quick snapshot. I took pictures and some video the last time I was here. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

    I arrived at Bliss Spring at two-fifteen, and set about making some lunch. I planned to stop for the night on one of the two ridges I was about to hike along where there is no water, so I stocked up with water too.

    I didn’t bother to take pictures, as I took a load when I spent the night here on my previous visit. Here’s a link to the pictures (and video) I took last time.

  • Old blaze

    Old blaze — I’ve no idea where it leads, I’m not going in that direction. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.
  • Bliss Spring (and lunch) 3.9 miles

    Bliss Spring (and lunch) 3.9 miles. On my first visit to Irish Wilderness I made it to Bliss Spring in the first afternoon. Just as well I have an extra day for this trip. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.
  • Sinkhole

    Sinkhole — It was impressive because of how wide it was. I’ve seen a lot bigger and deeper, but it was impressive none-the-less. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.
  • Whites Creek crossing point, Whites Creek Trail North Loop (Stereo)

    Whites Creek Crossing. Apparently, this is where I should have crossed. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

    This is looking back across the creek (NE-ish). I wouldn’t have been able to safely cross here either yesterday.

    Whites Creek Crossing (Stereo). Apparently, this is where I should have crossed. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.
  • Creek? What creek?

    The water level in the creek dropped overnight — which was my plan. But the drop exceeded my expectations. I was able to cross without getting my feet wet. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.
    Same spot yesterday afternoon. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.
  • Spring water, Whites Creek (stereo image)

    Spring water, Whites Creek. And in a few minutes I’ll be climbing the hill on the other side of the creek. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

    The fast-moving, noisy, and turbid brown-colored water of Whites Creek yesterday is now running clear, and the color of the water here screams “Spring.” Good to know, this should be a trustworthy water source.

    The only thing I don’t like about this picture is that it makes the hill look pretty small. It’s not.

    Stereo Image

    Spring water, Whites Creek. And in a few minutes I’ll be climbing the hill on the other side of the creek. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.
  • Camped near Whites Creek, Irish Wilderness

    Camped near Whites Creek, Irish Wilderness, waiting for the creek to drop down. And drop it did! Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

  • Camped near Whites Creek, Irish Wilderness

    Camped near Whites Creek, Irish Wilderness, waiting for the creek to drop down. And drop it did! Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.
  • Morning view from my hammock as the Sun breaks through

    Morning view from my hammock as the sun breaks through. Not bad last night, it dipped to just below freezing. I was nice and warm. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

    Day Two

    The temperature dropped to freezing overnight, and despite only having my 40°F top quilt I was too hot. Sometime after midnight, I noticed that the roar of the creek had faded away. I was up at six-thirty and the first thing I did was take a stroll down to the creek and was quite stunned to discover that it was just a small trickle. I’d be able to cross without even getting my feet wet!

  • I’ll wait this one out, Whites Creek Crossing. Irish Wilderness, on the trail to Bliss Spring

    I’ll wait this one out, Whites Creek Crossing. Irish Wilderness, on the trail to Bliss Spring Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

    Shortly after two, I started the descent to the first Whites Creek Crossing, and I could hear the creek running. It was loud. When I arrived at the crossing point, I estimated the water to be four or five feet deep (actually it was only around three feet).

    I should have taken some video to show how fast the creek was running.

    Before setting up camp, I wandered around a bit, looking for an alternate crossing point, and made some tentative attempts at the crossing. As soon as the water went over the top of my waterproof socks, they filled with water. That wasn’t a total disaster as they worked like a wet suit and soon warmed up.

    I decided that I wasn’t going to get across the creek safely, so I started looking for a spot to camp up on the side of the hollow away from the trail and the noise of the creek.

  • Trail Snack

    Trail Snack — Raisins, almonds and M&Ms. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.
  • Dry Prong, not so dry

    Dry Prong, not so dry. Whites Creek Trail, Irish Wilderness. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

    The Whites Creek Trail North loop is well-traveled, easy on your feet, and easy to follow, with modest elevation changes. It got a lot warmer, and I switched to my hiking kilt to keep cool and make the creek crossings easier. Dry Prong, once again, didn’t live up to its name and was running well.

    The trail might have been easy, but there were many downed limbs and lots of debris on the trail. Clearing the trail as I went slowed me down significantly.

  • At the start (or is it the end?) of the Whites Creek Trail Loop

    Photograph of Gary Allman at the trail sign marking the Beginning of the Whites Creek Trail North and South Loops. Irish Wilderness, Missouri. March 2023.
    At the start (or is it the end?) of the Whites Creek Trail Loop. I was last here in May 2021. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

    And, below, here I am at the same spot finishing my first visit to Irish Wilderness on a rainy day in May 2021.

    Whites Creek Trail completed – now just to hike the short spur trail back to the parking lot. Copyright © 2021 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.
  • First Creek Crossing — Whites Creek Trail, Irish Wilderness

    First creek crossing. Whites Creek Trail, Irish Wilderness. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

    There was a tree down at the Camp 5 Pond trailhead and parking lot. Two other cars were already parked up, and two guys sat under a tarp at one of the trailhead campsites. They had taken advantage of the down tree to harvest some wood and start a small fire.

    I had a short chat with one of the guys.

    They were waiting for a third person and were planning on bushwhacking to avoid flooded-out creek crossings. He told me that the first creek crossing (not the first Whites Creek crossing) had been knee-deep when they had taken a look at it earlier.

    By one p.m. I was on my way, on the spur trail that goes to the Whites Creek Trail loop. I made my first creek crossing before getting to the trail proper. It wasn’t knee-deep, just mid-shin, and I’d planned for this eventuality by wearing my waterproof socks — no wet feet for me (yet).

  • Irish Wilderness and the Whites Creek Trail Revisited

    Map showing the Whites Creek Trail, Irish Wilderness, Missouri.
    Irish Wilderness Whites Creek Trail. The red areas mark where I managed to miss the trail.

    A break in the weather and work provided an opportunity for me to re-visit Irish Wilderness and the Whites Creek Loop, which I first hiked in May 2021. I wanted to visit the wilderness in winter to see the lie of the land and maybe even get a good view from the 20-mile trail’s only scenic overlook.

    The plan

    The weather, following a series of significant winter storms that rained — hard — for over 24 hours, was a bit delayed, and the last dregs of the storms were still rolling through Friday morning. My original intention had been to get an early start from home (Irish Wilderness is a two-and-a-half-hour drive). Instead, I took it easy and planned to arrive sometime after noon to give the worst of the storms a chance to clear.

    Once at Camp 5 Pond Trailhead, I planned to follow the route I took in 2021, hiking the trail counter-clockwise, North Loop, then the South Loop. My only objectives for the trip were to visit the Eleven Point River scenic view, which had been partially blocked by the leafed-out trees in 2021, and find a spot to camp near the pools on Whites Creek on the South Loop. If the first Whites Creek crossing was too high to safely ford, I’d camp nearby. The water level should subside enough overnight for me to cross it Saturday.

    I deliberately hiked this trail late in the season in 2021 to give lots of people time to hike it before me, making the trail easier to follow. This time it was much earlier in the year, and there was a good chance the trail would be difficult to follow — and, in places it was 🙂

    The forecast

    • Friday, March 3, 2023. Rain clearing between noon and 2 p.m., then windy and bright, with an overnight temperature of 34°F.
    • Saturday, March 4, 2023. Sunny, 61°F, light winds, and 39°F overnight.
    • Sunday, March 5, 2023. Sunny, 66°F, winds gusting 25 m.p.h. and 51°F overnight.
    • Monday, March 6, 2023. Overcast and partly sunny, 75°F.

    Gear

    With the forecast for a minimum of 34°F, I took my 40°F top quilt and 10°F under quilt. If I got cold on the first night, that’d be the price I’d pay for more pack space and less weight. Otherwise, it was my typical winter backpacking gear. My pack weighed 20 lbs base weight and 28 lbs with food, fuel, and water.

    Day One

    Getting to Irish Wilderness from Springfield is easy. Head east on US60 for 130 miles, take a right onto State Hwy J for 15-ish miles, and the gravel road to Camp 5 Pond is on the right. I was around 100 miles into the drive when the rain started easing. I’d only driven a short way down State Hwy J when I realized a severe storm had hit the area. Several trees had come down across the road, thankfully cleared, and one was still partially blocking the road. The road was covered in small debris for most of the 15 miles to the trailhead.

    I started to wonder how much the storm might impact the trail and my trip. Only one way to find out!

  • Journal: Two nights and three days taking it easy at Hercules Glades Wilderness, February 2023

    Dusk at the Pole (Pete) Hollow Trail cairn — Right on target, 25 minutes from the trailhead. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

    My first hike of 2023, and my first hike in two months. Determined to make the best of the time available, I started my trip off with a seven-mile night hike.

  • End of trip, back at the Tower Trailhead

    End of trip, back at the Tower Trailhead. Trip total a modest 16 miles with 1,100 ft of elevation. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

    For a ‘Warm up’ hike, and my first backpacking trip in two months, things went fairly well. I’m a lot slower, but I’m still managing to get up the hills. My only gear change, my new beanie, was nice, warm, and no itches. I’d still like to drop some pack weight, but which luxury item should go? I’m so warm at night that I think I ought to be able to manage to below freezing with my 40℉ quilt, which will save me weight and space.

    Now, where to go next?

    Trip Totals: 16.16 miles and 1,100 ft of elevation.

    End of trip, back at the Tower Trailhead. Trip total, a modest 16 miles with 1,100 ft of elevation. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.
  • Gary on the Pole Hollow Trail. Hercules Glades Wilderness

    Gary on the Pole Hollow Trail. Hercules Glades Wilderness. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

    I love this glade on the ridge overlooking Pole Hollow. It’s nice to get out into the open after being surrounded by trees and brush for so long. It also taunts you with a view of exactly how much more climbing you have to do, as the trailhead is at the same height as the hills behind me!

  • Gary stopped for lunch by Long Creek

    Gary stopped for lunch by Long Creek. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.

    Lunch was noodles, pre-cooked bacon, and a Snickers bar for dessert, all washed down with a cup of coffee.

    Trying to fill my pot with water and put it on the stove one-handed (while I was videoing making lunch), was unexpectedly difficult and clumsy. I edited out the bit where I tried to pour water on my noodles and half missed! Regardless, it was a nice break by the creek.

    Lunch by the creek. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved.
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