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Gary at the Camp Five Pond Trailhead, Irish Wilderness

Gary at the Camp Five Pond Trailhead, Irish Wilderness. Whites Creek Trail, counter clockwise — December 2024. Copyright © 2024 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. It’s late in the day (14:30), and I’m carrying 4 liters of water. I want to get around four miles in and camp set up before it gets dark, in about three hours.
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It’s a two-and-a-half-hour drive to Irish Wilderness from Springfield
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Prepping for a four-day hike in Irish Wilderness

Food for four days — Whites Creek Trail, counter clockwise — December 2024. Copyright © 2024 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. There’s a break in the weather and even some rain in the forecast. Tomorrow I’m driving the two-and-a-half hours east to Irish Wilderness where I’ll hike the Whites Creek Trail counter-clockwise, and I’m going to take a leisurely four days to do it.

Food all bagged up — and my trail snacks for Day One. Whites Creek Trail, counter clockwise — December 2024. Copyright © 2024 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. In the picture above there are three breakfasts, four sets of trail snacks, four lunches, and three dinners. Spot the missing items …
There should have been three packs of Pop-Tarts, I’ll rue that omission, I love my daily Pop-Tart with breakfast, and at the end of the day as a dessert after dinner.
The Plan
- Day One. Will be a late start, so I’ll hike the North Loop for around four miles and camp wherever I end up. My only objective is to get past the first crossing of Whites Creek. There won’t be any water on the trail, so I’ll be carrying all I need for the night.
- Day Two. Continue the North Loop down to Bliss Spring and onward past the bluffs before going off trail to check out a ridge that may offer some views of the Eleven Point River, and that’s where I plan to camp. Again, I’m going to have to carry my night’s supply of water in with me.
- Day Three. Transition to the South Loop and make camp in what looked to be a promising spot near Fiddler Spring. This will be the worst day weather-wise with rain showers forecast for most of the day.
- Day Four. Hike the remainder of the South Loop back to the trailhead (5.8 miles).

The above image is courtesy of my subscription to windy.com (Check out the free version, it is the best weather site I’ve found. If you are a weather nerd, subscribe! I’m not an affiliate; I just want to see them remain in business).
Gear
The temperatures are forecast to be in the forties to fifties. I’ll be fine with my summer quilts and tarp, backed up by winter clothing in case it turns chilly. This is good, as it’ll lower the weight and pack space, leaving room for extra water to be carried on a couple of days.
The last time I hiked this trail, I had AFIB on the last day. This time, I’m upping my hydration program, which should help address that. Hopefully, all the time I’ve been putting in at the gym will also help with those big climbs up onto the ridges that the Whites Creek Trail has.
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Christmas Table Decoration
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Journal: Getting outside my comfort zone, Paddy Creek Wilderness, December 2024

Things have conspired to keep me off the trails this year. I’m hiking the Big Piney Trail in Paddy Creek Wilderness to get some trail time. But the daytime temps on two days will be below freezing. I’ll be pushing my comfort zone as I don’t normally venture out if the daytime temperature is going to drop below 40°F.
For details of my trip
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Frozen stock pond

Frozen stock pond. Big Piney Trail — December 2024. Copyright © 2024 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. That’s the last picture from this trip. I arrived back at the trailhead at four twenty, around forty minutes before sunset. In total, three days, two nights, 18.7 miles, and 1,700 ft. climbed.
And by the way, the sunset proved to be spectacular as I drove home.

Note: None of the links below are affiliate links.
What Worked
- Shelter. I took my winter tarp, which has doors, and it worked well to keep the wind out and the heat in.
- Clothing. My standard winter set up was fine and kept me warm. My feet were fine in the sandals, and I had borrowed a pair of gloves from Ginger (I’ve misplaced mine somewhere).
- Food and Cooking. My Fancee Feest alcohol Cat Can stove worked flawlessly at all temperatures. I took my wood stove but didn’t use it except as a base for the Fancee Feest stove. I had plenty of food, though some summer sausage would have been nice. My food bag was crammed a bit full with all my supplies.
- Electronics. I have to confess to bringing along a light string. It worked well, but I’m not sure I want to waste time carefully coiling it up when it is below freezing. The Kindle App on my phone/GPS provided hours of reading to get me through the long dark nights.
- Navigating by compass. I find it much quicker to follow than the GPS, though I get the original bearing from my GPS software.
- Weather forecast. windy.com is a truly wonderful App. I screen grab and print out the summary to keep in my trail journal along with printed maps of the area I am in.

Leather Backpacking Journal — Field Notes notebook in a leather binder, showing a printed Windy.com weather forecast and trail maps. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. Lessons Learned
The first and probably most important lesson I learned was that hiking in temps below my comfort zone, that is, mid-twenties vs mid-forties, is fine. I’ve already slept out in my hammock in temps down to 15°F — and been too hot in the night, so that wasn’t a concern.
Short days mean not a lot of time hiking. Especially when it’s cold (I find), getting started is slow, as is packing up and setting up camp. It’s better to stick with clear trails and known campsites to speed things up and make setting up camp in the dark easier (watch me ignore this lesson on my next backpacking trip).
Crossing the near waist-deep Big Paddy Creek was cold and marginally okay with the temps in the late fifties. It took a couple of hours for my body heat to dry out my shorts. Had it been windy, I had a change of clothes available. But. If I’d looked harder, I could have found an easier place to cross where only my feet would have got wet. I need to check more thoroughly in the future.
Keeping my water from freezing is going to be a big issue if I continue to hike in sub-freezing conditions. I’m going to research insulated water containers, and how others deal with the issue. This wouldn’t be so much of a problem if there was more running water in the wildernesses. Heigh Ho! We are in a drought, and it is what it is.
Be more careful when hiking with your wrists through the wrist-loops of your hiking poles. I tripped on a tree root on a dry creek bed crossing. Once the immediate shock passed, I laughed out loud at my predicament. I fell on top of my hiking poles and was pinned to the ground by my wrists. It took me a few moments to work out how to get up. I’m lucky I didn’t break my hiking poles in the process.
I found using a compass to navigate in the forest is much easier than trying to use the GPS.
Winter clothing list
- Bedrock Sandals. My ‘go-to’ hiking huaraches.
- Wool toe socks. My feet were perfectly comfy at the 20°F temps I encountered. I also carry a spare pair in case they get wet.
- Undies. I take one spare pair of undies in case the pair I’m wearing get wet. I didn’t change them on this trip even though the pair I was wearing got soaked crossing Big Paddy Creek.
- Bass Pro waffle base layer top and bottom. I have Merino base layers, but I don’t use them nowadays as they are bulkier and heavier than the less expensive Bass Pro option. I also find that the Bass Pro base layers are warmer. Most of the time, I don’t use the top, but I carry it in case my hiking shirt gets wet.
- Columbia snow pants. I’ve had these for over ten years. The waterproof coating no longer works, but the wide legs make pulling them on over shoes nice and easy — an excellent advantage in cold weather.
- Running/Gym shorts. For that one warm day…
- Merino wool shirt (it was sold as a base layer). I wear it 24 x 7 while backpacking.
- Puffy jackets. I took along my well-worn orange Columbia down jacket, which I bought second (or maybe third) hand, and my black Backcountry down hoody jacket, which is really long and keeps my head and backside warm. I carry two down jackets because the Columbia jacket (14oz.) is more compressible and lighter than the other option, a fleece.
- Shemagh & Buff(s). I never go backpacking without them. Highly recommended.
- Bandana. Used as a handkerchief and hot-pot holder.
- Rain jacket. My lightweight Lightheart gear rain jacket I use this to layer up and keep the wind out.
- My latest hat. It keeps the sun out of my eyes, plus a hunter orange beanie — it’s deer hunting season — and another beanie for bedtime.
Will I go backpacking in sub-freezing daytime temperatures again? Yes, if I can find trails with running water and long enough hikes to keep me occupied during the day.
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Keeping my feet warm at 26°F

Keeping my feet warm at 26°F. Big Piney Trail — December 2024. Copyright © 2024 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. A change of plan
The social trail I was following disappeared very quickly. Rather than return to the North Loop, I worked out the compass heading to get me straight to ‘Spring Hollow’ and bushwhacked my way straight to it. It’s a trick I’m using more often now. It saves wasting time playing hunt the trail.
When I arrived at ‘Spring Hollow’ I decided that it was too early to stop. I didn’t want to spend the afternoon sitting around in 26°F temps. I considered carrying on to where the short cut crosses Little Paddy Creek. But that’s only a mile, mile-and-a-half further on, so again a long wait in the cold.
Instead, I decided to hike the five or six miles back to the trailhead and go home. I ought to be able to finish the trip before it gets dark.
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Frost Flower
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A bed of frost flowers
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Wrapped up warm for a cold hike

Wrapped up warm for a cold hike. Big Piney Trail — December 2024. Copyright © 2024 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. I’m going off in search of a trail that I’m sure runs from where I’m camped near Little Paddy Creek to the North Loop. Then I plan to look for a better campsite at ‘Spring Hollow’.
The darned cell phone camera lens always makes my hats look all squiffy, and my chops look chubby.
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Imagine a hammock between those two trees
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Day Three — Slushy water bottle

Day Three — Slushy water bottle. Big Piney Trail — December 2024. Copyright © 2024 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. It dropped to around 19°F overnight, and my water pouch froze. When I got up it was 21°F, and the forecast (which was correct) is for it to not go above 26°F.
My plan had been to load up with water and camp at ‘Paddy Creek Trolltunga’. However, I realized that I’d have a lot of trouble keeping all that water from freezing during the 26°F day, and even lower temperatures at night.
Looking at the map, I thought I’d try to follow a ‘Social Trail’ that passed nearby and ought to head north-west to the North Loop; I could then try to find a better campsite overlooking ‘Spring Hollow.’ Or I could go and camp near where the shortcut crosses Little Paddy Creek. The water in both places was running and wouldn’t freeze, so I’d have no water issues.
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There are a lot of trees down across the trail

There are a lot of trees down across the trail. Big Piney Trail — December 2024. Copyright © 2024 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. Despite all the downed trees and obstructions, I made good time to my planned campsite, arriving at three-fifteen. But I was not too fond of the spot, as the only trees suitable to hang my hammock from were right next to the fire ring. I spent about an hour looking for an alternate place to spend the night. It was getting dark by the time I’d finished I’d settled on a spot and set up camp, ready for what promised to be a cold night.

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A better place to cross

A better place to cross. Big Piney Trail — December 2024. Copyright © 2024 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. Climbing down the bank here, about 10 yards west, to cross Big Paddy Creek would have been the clever thing to do. But when I was scouting for a good crossing point, I didn’t see it. So, I crossed the hard (and cold) way.
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The Big Paddy Creek Crossing has been washed out

The Big Paddy Creek Crossing has been washed out. Big Piney Trail — December 2024. Copyright © 2024 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. The crossing has been washed out in the flood, but I crossed here anyway. It was deep and cold. How deep? Well, my trail journal in my pocket got wet.
It is just as well it was a warmer day today. This would not have been fun with the temperatures in the twenties.
There’s what looks to be a much shallower and drier point to cross 30 – 50 yards upstream.
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The trail’s a mess at the bottom of the ridge
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Enjoying the view and some lunch
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Gary at the Big Paddy Creek Scenic Overlook
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Big Paddy Creek Scenic Overlook

Big Paddy Creek Scenic Overlook. Big Piney Trail — December 2024. Copyright © 2024 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. I love this spot and stopped for a bite to eat before embarking on what I reckoned was going to be a difficult time on the trail at the bottom of the ridge. The area flooded recently, and no doubt the trail will be messed up.
I made good time getting here, about an hour-and-a-half or so. I didn’t start out until eleven-twenty.
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View from my hammock, with a hot drink in hand











