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Preparing Breakfast

Preparing Breakfast – Boiling up water on my wood stove ready for coffee and oats. Copyright © 2020 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. The start of Day Two. I’m glad I remembered to Keep some wood dry overnight. Everything was sopping wet after last night’s storm, but I was able to light my wood burning stove.

Breakfast – Hot oats and coffee. Copyright © 2020 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. -
More wet trails
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Gary, happy on the trail
Pilot (Tower) Trail at Hercules Glades Wilderness. Note the amount of water on the trail in the background. It was yet another wet feet hike.
The trail was deceptively (and unexpectedly) dry when I set out (see below).
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Wilderness Escape (again)

Small falls on ‘Cab Creek’ – After 3-4 hours of rain last night ‘Cab Creek’ was running well. Copyright © 2020 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. 
Recommendations for Getting Outside During Covid-19 – New poster at the trailhead sign-in point. Copyright © 2020 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. I work from home, so I really shouldn’t have any problem with the current shelter in place orders. Even so, the zeitgeist of the moment seems to have had some subtle psychological impact, and I’m finding it wearing. Regardless of shelter in place orders, I’d still be chomping at the bit to get out and spend some time in the wilderness. And so it was, and still is!
I wanted to get away for a couple of nights, but not travel too far. The choice was either another trip to Hercules Glades or go and visit Piney Creek. The trails at Piney Creek aren’t conducive to medium-length hikes. Piney Creek’s trails are either short or long. The idea of a couple of short hikes punctuated by a day spent doing nothing by the lake did appeal. In the end, I opted for a few more miles under my belt and another visit to Hercules Glades.
The forecast for Friday wasn’t brilliant. Rain between one and three, and then severe thunderstorms after seven. It would be warm with minimum daytime temperatures in the fifties. Saturday night would be slightly chilly, at 40°F (4.5°C), but both Saturday and Sunday would be bright and sunny during the day. If the forecast was correct, Sunday would be hot, up in the seventies.
As for hiking plans, I was going to be boring. After all the people I encountered on my last trip, I decided to try and keep away from the well-trafficked routes by going back to my campsite near the ‘Twin Falls.’ That campsite is just far enough from the trailhead to be within my hiking range for a late afternoon arrival at the parking lot. For my second night, I planned to retrace my route almost back to the trailhead, and then take the Pees Hollow Trail and spend the night near one of our favorite spots by ‘Cab Creek.’ Altogether it would add up to about twelve miles, and a couple of nights in my hammock. Not too shabby.
I had a couple of new pieces of gear to try out. One positive aspect of the country-wide shutdown (for people like me with lengthy wish lists) is that many manufacturers are offering significant discounts and free deliveries. Taking advantage of these, I have been able to get a new pair of huaraches, a folding stainless steel wood burner, and an ultralight Camp chair (really!). The huaraches are essentially the same as the last pair I bought but with a much thicker sole. It was going to be interesting to see how they faired on what was going to be very wet trails. The wood burner is much smaller and packable than my homemade stove. The only downside is that it weighs three to four ounces more than my old stove. And finally, the chair is a luxury item that’s been on my list for ages. It is an ultralight camp chair — and, yes, it really is a ‘proper’ chair — it weighs under a pound. It will be an excellent contribution to my backpacking comfort. Unfortunately, ‘will be’ because it hadn’t arrived in time for this trip. Oh well, trying the chair out is another excuse to get out again in a week or so.
Back to my plans; by leaving later in the day, I hoped to avoid most of the afternoon’s rain, and still give myself enough time between downpours to set up camp and get dinner cooked. We have had a lot of rain recently, which decided me on taking my alcohol stove and plenty of fuel, too, as a backup, just in case I couldn’t find any dry wood. My new wood burner also acts as a stand for the alcohol stove, so I would be able to test that out too.
Unfortunately, I got careless getting ready for this trip. With Saturday night’s predicted temperature being 40°F, I didn’t leave any margin for error with my Summer quilts, which have a 40°F comfort rating. I should have planned for a 30°F night, but I was basking in the glory of finally transitioning to my summer kit, and taking extra covers didn’t factor in my thinking.
Plans complete, I packed Thursday night, all I had to do Friday was clear some work and get underway between one and two. I’d be on the trail around three.
Day One

Gary – Happy on the trail – Pilot trail that is. More new gear to try out. Copyright © 2020 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. I got away just after two, a little bit later than planned, but no real surprises there then. And no surprises in the fact that it was raining as I left Springfield either. I was ready for it to be raining on the trail too. But by the time I arrived at the trailhead, the sun was shining.
The trail was a lot drier than I was expecting, I stopped briefly at the Pole (Pete) Hollow cairn to see if the rocks I left on my last visit were still in place (They were). My new huaraches were proving to be even better than I’d expected, which was excellent news. Two hours later, I was ready to leave the trail and start bushwhacking north to my campsite. I’d decided not to be quite so boring, and instead of using the same campsite, I’d scout around further down the creek for somewhere else to camp. I gave myself half an hour to find somewhere suitable as I wanted to get set up before it got dark (sunset was at eight.) or rained. When I had last checked, the storm was still due to arrive before sunset.


in the middle of a forest, what’s the chance that the trees I’ve picked will get struck by lightning?
It took a while to find somewhere to camp (it always does). Still, eventually, I found somewhere with two big enough trees, far enough apart, with no brush between them and no nearby widow-makers. Again, I got careless — and this time, lucky. I’d not checked what direction the storm was approaching from, so I had to take a guess. Fortunately, I got it right. Although, for some reason best known to me — and I still don’t know why — I decided to set the tarp high, I also set it in ‘porch mode’ with my hiking pole holding the tarp higher in the middle. With a severe thunderstorm heading my way, that wasn’t the cleverest of ideas. I should have set the tarp as low to the ground as possible so that I could hunker down from the straight-line winds, and it would keep the rain from getting to my hammock.
Hammock up, I collected wood for cooking dinner and breakfast. I stored it under my tarp in the lee of the hammock, where I hoped it would stay dry (it did). I collected some water from a nearby feeder creek, and then cooked my first meal on the new woodstove. It was surprisingly successful. Within five minutes of lighting the fire, my pot was boiling ready for a hot drink. Not long after, I had boiling water for my meal, and I kept the fire going for while just for the fun of it.
All in all, it was a great success. I should add that I had given the stove a test run in the backyard a few days ago, so this wasn’t my first go with it. The storm still hadn’t arrived when I retreated to the hammock to read for a while after sunset. Before long, thunder and constant lightning could be seen and heard approaching. As the storm came nearer, the increasing wind, bright flashes, and associated cacophony of noise distracted me from my book.
having a metal hiking pole sticking pointy end up at the sky in a thunderstorm wasn’t the cleverest of my ideas
Fortunately, the surrounding trees cut the wind down significantly, and in the middle of a forest, what’s the chance that the trees I’ve picked will get struck by lightning? It’s not worth worrying about. But it did occur to me that having a metal hiking pole sticking its pointy end up at the sky in a thunderstorm wasn’t the cleverest of my ideas. I took it down and went back to my book. Shortly after the rain came, and it was heavy. The wind was strong enough to push the tarp into the hammock and set it rocking. The flashes and noise forced me to give up trying to read. Peering out, I got a face full of rain. That wasn’t good. My under quilt is down, and getting it wet wasn’t going to be a good idea. The wind had backed slightly, driving the rain under the tarp and into the hammock. I had a plan for this, I draped my rain poncho over the head end of the hammock. That fixed the problem, and the hammock, under quilt, and I stayed dry for the night.
Back in the hammock, I decided not to carry on reading, but laid back and enjoyed the show. I was soon asleep despite all the wind, thunder, and lightning (hammocks will do that to you!). The rain didn’t stop though. It was still going when I awoke at 1:00 a.m. And again at 3:00 a.m.
Aside. When I switched to fulltime working, I changed my health insurance. I can now only get my 90-day, regular pill supplies by mailorder. Despite my Dr. sending in a new prescription in plenty of time, there had been a problem. The result was, I had run out of my ‘pee’ pills a couple of days earlier (or should that be ‘anti-pee’ pills?). Without the pills I needed to get up every couple of hours to take a leak. The pills, of course, arrived while I was away. Good times.
Day One Stats
Day Two

Preparing Breakfast – Boiling up water on my woodstove ready for coffee and oats. Copyright © 2020 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. I woke up to sunshine, a sodden forest, and a background roar coming from the two creeks I’d camped near. The loudest was ‘Twin Falls’ creek about 200 yards east at the bottom of the hill I had camped about a quarter of the way up. The quieter one was the feeder creek I’d got my water from the previous evening.

Camped near ‘Twin Falls’ – Note my rain poncho draped over the end of my hammock. Last night’s severe thunderstorm was blowing rain around the end of my tarp. The poncho kept me and the hammock dry. Copyright © 2020 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. I collected my soaking wet food and trash bags from the tree they had been hanging from overnight. Bags in hand, I ventured down the hill to see what all the noise was about. I was expecting to see a seething brown, frothy, mass of water. The reality was much more mundane. The creek was clear and just running a bit more vigorously than the day before.
Back at camp, I took some dry wood from under my tarp and lit a fire in my stove. It took me a little longer to get my water to boil, but not a lot. Soon I had a cup of hot chocolate, and my rolled oats were soaking in boiling water. There was no rush. I didn’t plan on getting on the trail until gone midday, so I enjoyed the sunshine, leaving things to air out a bit, and I read for a while.
Pretty close to plan, I was ready to be on my way around noon. I stopped to take some pictures and video of the Twin Falls, which were running, but were no more impressive than when I had first encountered them in March last year.

Breakfast – Hot oats and coffee. Copyright © 2020 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. 

I heard loud voices behind me. I had two choices; lurk until the hikers had gone past or set off down the trail and try and stay ahead of them.
I had just started heading east on the trail when I heard loud voices behind me. I had two choices; lurk until the hikers had gone past or set off down the trail and try and stay ahead of them. My experience is that most hikers move a bit more quickly than me, so I left the trail and went to explore the woods to the south for a few minutes. It was a mistake. When the hikers finally came into view, they were a couple of old guys moving at around half a mile and hour. It was too late. I couldn’t shoot out in front of them, I was committed to hiding in the woods. They appeared to be oblivious of their surroundings as they crossed ‘Twin Falls’ Creek and the glade the trail passes through here. I didn’t particularly want to overtake them on the trail, so I decided to give them a ten-minute start, knowing I’d still catch up with them. I decided when I did, maybe I would stop for lunch.
Now you know why I hate meeting people on the trail. I don’t ‘do’ casual chit-chat.
It was about three-quarters of an hour after I set out that I got going again. And the trail was excessively wet and muddy. And it remained so, almost All. The. Way. It wasn’t long before I met a group of three backpackers with two big dogs — complete with their own packs — heading west. I made room for them by stepping off the trail a couple of yards and waited for them to pass. One of the party said hello, and asked me what I was shooting. Not having the nimblest of minds when it comes to trail-side banter, I replied, “Beretta.” I received a puzzled, “Nice.” in return, and they went on their way. A hundred yards further down the trail, I realized my mistake. D’oh! He was referring to my camera, of course, and not my handgun, which he wouldn’t even have seen. Now you know why I hate meeting people on the trail. I don’t ‘do’ casual chit-chat.

Pilot (Tower) Trail. Copyright © 2020 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. 
Lunch on the trail – The cotton bag holds my latest wood burning stove, which I used in its alcohol stove configuration to heat water for lunch. The noodles were very good. Copyright © 2020 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. In less than half an hour I’d caught up with the two old
geezershikers again. They were still moving slowly along, talking loudly. I gave up and decided I’d take an early lunch. All the deadfall wood was wet, so I got out the Trangia and had my first attempt at using it in my new stove. It worked fine. The noodles were delicious, and I had a cup of hot chocolate too.While I sat cooking and eating my lunch, three young lads went by heading west. I was only about 20 feet from the trail and in full view, but none of them saw me.
I was soon back on the trail, and an hour later I met a backpacking dad and his young daughter, complete with her own mini backpack. That was good to see. I did a double-take when I first saw them, as the dad uncannily resembled someone I knew in the UK, right down to the beard, hat, and scruffy clothes. I’d last seen Phil in 2011, shortly before he prematurely died, leaving a wife and young daughter. Of course, it wasn’t Phil, but the confusion of partial recognition was unsettling.

Indian paintbrush – Castilleja, commonly known as Indian paintbrush or prairie-fire. Copyright © 2020 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. 
Glade – I stopped here for lunch a few trips ago. Copyright © 2020 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. 
Heading east on the Pilot Trail at Hercules Glades Wilderness – In modern parlance that would be the Tower Trail. Copyright © 2020 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. Shortly after three I was back near the trailhead, at the start of the clock-wise route around the Pees Hollow Trail, and ready for the last section of my hike down to ‘Cab Creek.’ I set off down the ridge and I stopped to re-fill my water bottle from a creek the trail crosses near the bottom of the ridge. The end of my day’s hike was less than a mile away.


Late afternoon found me at my destination, ‘Cab Creek’ where I stopped and took pictures of the falls. I decided to wander around and explore for a while before finally setting up camp near to where I’d first camped when I found this nice corner of the glades a couple of years ago. The ground was sopping wet, so I didn’t bother looking for wood for the stove and cooked my dinner on the alcohol stove.

Small falls on ‘Cab Creek’ – After 3-4 hours of rain last night ‘Cab Creek’ was running well. Copyright © 2020 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. 
Small falls on ‘Cab Creek’ – After 3-4 hours of rain last night ‘Cab Creek’ was running well. Copyright © 2020 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. Day Two Stats
Day Three

Camped near ‘Cab Creek’ off the Pees Hollow Trail – I got caught out by a 36F night with my 40F insulation and no extra clothes or wrappings. Chilly but not health threatening. Copyright © 2020 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. Overnight, two mistakes caught up with me. The temperature dropped to 36°F — below the comfort rating of my quilts, and when I set up my hammock, I didn’t check if I’d set it up properly. I checked the ridgeline tension, but I didn’t make sure that the head end was lower than the foot end. Now, that’s an issue because if the foot end isn’t higher, you tend to slide down towards that end. Not disastrous, except that the end of the under-quilt is thinner. In short, due to my mistakes, I spent a chilly, uncomfortable night in my normally warm and cozy hammock. I slept fitfully and was glad when the sun finally made its way into the hollow, allowing me to bask in its warmth. I was in no rush, so I enjoyed laying out in the hammock in the sunshine for the greater part of the morning.


I have a problem with repetitive tasks like hiking and swimming. I am unable to think while I’m doing them. So having some downtime in the hammock without my book made a welcome change and a chance to do some thinking.
I packed up camp and was back on the trail just after one. I reckoned that with a stop for lunch, I’d be finishing the four-mile up-hill hike and be back at the parking lot around five and home by six-thirty.


Again the trail was very wet and muddy. A lot of it was ankle-deep mud. When I arrived at the Brushy Creek crossing, the creek was running well, and a welcome relief. I walked down the creek to take a look at the stepped falls where Brushy Creek meets ‘Cab Creek,’ cleaning my feet off in the process. I took a few photos and decided it was too early to stop and cook lunch. I filled my water bottle and packed some more water so I could cook lunch later.

Stepped falls on ‘Cab Creek’ – At the confluence of Brushy Creek and ‘Cab Creek’. You won’t find ‘Cab Creek’ on the maps. I made that up. Copyright © 2020 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. 
Stepped falls on ‘Cab Creek’. Copyright © 2020 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. 
Small falls on Brushy Creek – The trail is just at the top of these falls. Copyright © 2020 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. Back where the trail crosses Brushy Creek I met a family of four out on a day hike. The young kid was carrying two six-foot fishing poles. I have no idea where he thought he was going to go fishing, or how he’d feel about bringing them along once he finished the six-mile hike. Fortunately, that wasn’t going to be my problem.
The hike out was wet and muddy, and the grit from the mud caused some rubbing on my ankle on my left foot. It’s the first time I’ve had that sort of problem while hiking. It would be easy to blame my new huaraches. With the trail conditions I encountered, I’d probably have had some issue whatever footwear I had.

Spring Ozarks – I know I keep taking pictures of this view, but it changes all the time. Copyright © 2020 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. In the end, I decided not to stop and cook lunch. I finished the last part of the trail (all uphill) fairly swiftly, and I was back at the trailhead by 4:30 p.m. and back home at little over an hour later.

Hike over – Hat hair, two nights and a tad short of 13 miles. Now back to shelter in place. Copyright © 2020 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. Day Three Stats
That brought my trip (and April) total to 13 miles, 1,400 ft. And two nights. A lot better than it could have been.
Final Thoughts
Well, my carelessness definitely set me up for some problems.
- Not taking suitable clothes or quilts for the low predicted temperatures of Saturday night.
- Not checking where the storm was coming from could have been disastrous if I hadn’t been lucky enough to guess correctly.
- Setting the tarp high when I knew a severe thunderstorm was on its way (and we’ll best forget my setting it up in ‘porch mode’).
- Stopping and waiting for the slow hikers to pass, wasn’t a big deal, but I probably wasted a lot of time doing so, just because I didn’t want them to overtake me on the trail. I should have just carried on. That would have been a much better option, and those particular hikers would never have caught up with me.
- Not checking that I’d properly set the hammock on the second night was a stupid, rookie mistake.
The other problems I had were minor. I’m going to have to keep an eye on the rubbing problem with my new huaraches. I hope it’s a one-off, as I really prefer the thicker, less flexible soles on my new pair.
I think I’m going to try out not reading books on my trips. While they help pass the long winter nights, they also mean I don’t have time to just stop and think. This is especially true when the weather and conditions don’t allow me to sit and reflect on life while looking after a campfire. The colors and the lots of running water made this a very pretty trip. But I think I prefer the colder weather as it puts people off going out on the trails. I’m very antisocial! Not that they aren’t entitled to be there just as much as I am. I just don’t want to see or hear too many of them while I’m backpacking.
It was a good trip. I’ve been reminded of a few things, and hopefully, that’ll remove some of my complacency and carelessness. And now I have my camp chair to try out on the trail…
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Having fun with my meeting backgrounds

I’ve not been counting how long we’ve been sequestering ourselves away from COVID-19, so I checked. Today is day 45. My last venture out ‘among the English’1 was on March 11, for a meal accompanied by local clergy, a vestry member, and the visiting National President of the Brotherhood of St. Andrew. We had a good conversation and a very nice bar-be-que meal. After that, I withdrew into my shell.
Ginger and I had decided that we’d isolate ourselves relatively early so we knew we’d be in the clear health-wise if TSHTF. Of course, that backfired when the spread of the coronavirus slowed as it reached the midwest.
The kids thought that we’d lost it, and even got angry with us when we told them to keep clear. With one (at the time), working in a restaurant and an old folks home, another working in a pharmacy, and the third managing a fast-food restaurant, we decided that it was in our best interest to isolate ourselves from them. After all, we both have minor heart issues, and I’m — I hate to admit this — now old enough to be in the ‘at risk’ age group. We did make a couple of concessions. When Lanie was furloughed from both her jobs we let her do some work out in the yard. And one night we sat on opposite sides of the deck to celebrate Lanie’s birthday. But none of them have ventured too near us or in the house since mid-march.
Within a week or so of our self-imposed isolation the diocesan office in Kansas City temporarily closed. Soon after that, Springfield and the surrounding county was under a stay at home order too.
While the world (essential workers aside) wondered what to do with the extra time they had on their hands, I, and all the other diocesan communicators, church communicators, and administrators had more work than we could cope with.
I’ve been working remotely in one form or another for over 30 years, so I’m used to it. Over the past five years I’ve worked to get the diocesan office off of email and onto instant messaging, video calls, and video conferencing, so from a technology standpoint, the transition was straight forward for almost everyone. Adapting to working in a home environment was probably a different matter. For me, it was business as usual. Except. Except it was manic. I won’t go into details, but for a while there I was working 10-12 hour days, 6-7 days a week. While the world (essential workers aside) wondered what to do with the extra time they had on their hands, I, and all the other diocesan communicators, church communicators, and administrators had more work than we could cope with.
Late last week, things finally started to slow down and settle into their new rhythm. Ginger has remained busy throughout this period too, with her workload not easing up either.
Ginger has been on two outings to pick up groceries, and another to replenish our alcohol supplies (liquor stores are considered an essential business in Springfield). I took a couple of days off to get away into the wilderness and recharge my batteries (within the rules of our stay at home order). My ventures out also give Ginger a chance to enjoy some quality alone time. Apart from that, we’ve not moved. Despite all the hours working, we’ve somehow managed to burn through all six seasons of Lost. I make that over 50 hours of TV. Lost and the UK Top 50 on Spotify have kept me entertained.
Not being one to give myself any respite, partway through all this, we came up with the bright idea of holding a daily video coffee hour, which is where today’s picture comes in. Microsoft has finally added the facility to put backgrounds on our video conference calls, and this is my current favorite. Very Dexter’s Laboratory. I screen grabbed it during a quiet hour.
If things go according to plan, I am heading out into the woods again this weekend. The forecast is for heavy rain, but, ‘frankly my dear, I don’t give a damn.’ I’m ready to get some fresh air. The up-side is that my camera and rain don’t mix, so there probably won’t be
anymany pictures.1alludes to a quote from the movie Witness.
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Coffee Hour (or should that be ‘Tea break’)

Quick picture of my desk I took this photograph of my desk with my phone this morning. I didn’t realize at the time how much history and how many special things there were in this simple picture.
I posted a copy on my personal Facebook account, and Carol made a comment about all the nice things.
That made me stop and think. The cup is from Diane & Jim — a memento of Ginger’s trip to Canada, The coaster came from Hawaii and was given to me by Tom and Rebbie, Ginger made the vase a couple of days ago and left it on my desk. Lanie planted the Redbud many years ago. As for the pictures, Lanie took the picture of Ginger and me (center), Ginger took the picture of Lanie and me (far left), and I took the picture of Ginger, Lanie and Kaśka (Katie) hiking at Busiek (far right).
Carol was right, there’s a lot to unpack in this picture! I ❤️ it.
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Ginger’s studio at night
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Blue bottle tree with lights
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Rocks on the Pole Hollow Cairn
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Two days ‘Self-Isolation’ in Hercules Glades Wilderness

View to the west from near the top of the Upper Pilot Knob. The Lower Pilot knob is the pointy hill in the distance. Copyright © 2020 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. Springfield and Greene County have been on COVID-19 lockdown since mid-march. A lot of people have been laid off or furloughed, including Lanie from one of her jobs. However, my workload has risen significantly as the communications needs of the churches and the diocese increased and morphed as people adjusted to remote working. The small ray of sunshine for us in Springfield is that we are allowed out to exercise, and liquor is considered an essential item.
Backpacking is definitely exercising in my book. With that in mind, I decided to take a short break, get some exercise, and enjoy some time out in the wild. My original plan was for both of us to go, but Ginger had some foot pain and didn’t fancy even a couple of miles hiking, so this was another solo trip.
I decided to stick with something simple, and re-visit my campsite near the ‘Twin falls’ in Hercules Glades.
I have been meaning to take a hike up to the top of Upper Pilot Knob to take in the scenery for a long time, but the opportunity never seemed to present itself. My Twin Falls campsite is just to the north of the Upper Pilot and therefore would provide a good opportunity to check out the views. Finally, Hercules Glades are (relatively) close to home, the Pilot Trail doesn’t see a lot of hikers, and my planned campsite is a long way off the trail. All in all, ideal for some COVID-19 reclusing.
A forecast of warm-ish overnight temperatures in the mid-forties (6°-7°C) decided me on switching over to my summer camping gear. I replaced the hammock’s winter cover with a bug net. I learned last year that venturing out without a bug net can be a mistake. I swapped out my 10°F winter quilts for my — much lighter and smaller packing — 40°F quilts. Just in case the temperature was lower than expected I packed a fleece pullover, socks, wooly hat, and a base layer. All of which turned out to be unnecessary. It had been raining hard for several days so I assumed that the loose branches in the woods would be wet. With that in mind, I decided against taking my woodstove. That will make this the second time I’ve left it behind and later regretted it.
Day One
After the recent rainy starts to my hikes, it came as no surprise to find that it was overcast when I left home on the hour-long drive to the Tower Trailhead. The parking lot had ten vehicles in it, more than I was expecting, but a lot less than I’ve seen on a busy weekend. Only two people had signed in at the Trailhead that day, and they were going on the Pees Hollow Trail. It was looking like I’d have the trail to myself, that was good and all part of my plan! I was fully expecting yet another ‘wet feet hike’ and I was also looking forward to some serious twin-falls action, and maybe another shower?

Hercules Glades Tower Trailhead parking lot once again – I counted 10 vehicles and one RV. A lot more people than I was expecting. Copyright © 2020 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. Within ten minutes of starting out the rain came down. No sooner had I got my rain gear on than it stopped again. Putting the poncho on is a pain. Well, getting it to go over my pack is the difficult bit. However, it was warm-ish and I didn’t fancy hiking with it on if it wasn’t needed, and I took it off again. As it turned out, the day brightened and that was the last of the rain.

Back on the Pilot (Tower) Trail – and once again it is drizzling. Copyright © 2020 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. 
Siding. The interesting thing (to me) about this piece of siding is that I first spotted it on Google Earth. I’m impressed. Copyright © 2020 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. The trails were not as wet as I was expecting and it occurred to me that I could have brought my woodstove along. Oh well.
After a couple of hours hiking, I reached the point where I needed to start bushwhacking the two-hundred or so yards off-trail down to my planned campsite. Once again the falls were a disappointment. They were running, but not enough for both falls to be flowing. I didn’t bother to take any pictures, and there was no incentive to have a shower.
On my way down to where I’d be camping, I stopped to take a picture of a piece of siding or soffit that a tornado dropped here. The siding is interesting to me because I knew it was here before I’d explored the area in person. Despite being quite small — around 8′ x 9″ — it was (and is) clearly visible on Google Earth.
Spot the siding …
Or is it a soffit board?
A quick look around my campsite

Camped for the night – I really am enjoying this string of LED lights. The picture’s not too bad for a one-second no-tripod shot. Copyright © 2020 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. By 4:15 p.m. I was at my intended camping spot. It didn’t take long to set everything up and I was sitting in my hammock before I knew it.
After hanging my food bag I went on an unplanned trip exploring down the creek. Nearby I found a spring-box, and further down the creek, there were areas that looked like they’d been cleared many years ago. I Hadn’t intended to go exploring, so I didn’t have my GPS or camera with me. I could have recorded my track using my satellite locator, but I didn’t think to turn its tracking feature on (at least I had it with me!) By the time I go back to camp, it was getting dark. It was time for food and then to settle in and read a book for the evening.
Day One Stats
Day Two

Warming up in the morning sunshine. 
Sunny morning in the woods. Copyright © 2020 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. My only plan for the day was to laze around, hike up the Upper Pilot Knob and then head home, a total of around eight miles for the entire trip.

The brush is fairly dense – There’s a creek down there somewhere. Copyright © 2020 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. 
Enjoying woods and the sunshine. Copyright © 2020 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. As much as I enjoyed sitting in the sunshine, I decided that I wanted to get a few more miles under my belt. I began contemplating alternate routes, the only issue with that was that it meant spending time on the more popular trails where I was more likely to encounter other hikers. However, there would be plenty of room to get off the trail if I met anyone. I decided to hike south down the Devil’s Den East (Upper Pilot)1 Trail, then east along Rock Spring (Long Creek) Trail, and finally back up to the Tower Trailhead via the little-used Pole (Pete) Hollow Trail. Lunch and a water refill stop could be either at Rock Spring or at Long Creek, which I’d be crossing a few times.
Just for fun I decided to record a time-lapse video of my camp breakdown, which according to the photo time-stamps took me 35 minutes including a couple of stops to enjoy the view and finish my morning hot chocolate. Below is the result.
Packing up camp
(One-minute time-lapse video.)
The process took me 35 minutes including taking a couple of breaks to drink my hot chocolate Something to note about packing up camp. I’m pretty gentle on my gear, so everything gets coiled up and properly put away. I could save some time by just stuffing all the bits and bobs away, but I’ve found that it pays off, in the long run, to take the time to stow everything, clean my cook kit, and shake out my hammock before putting it away so everything is ready for the next trip.
It didn’t take long to hike to the Devil’s Den East (Upper Pilot) Trail, and once out on the glades, I started to look for a north heading spur trail to take me to the top. I didn’t see one and decided to bushwhack up stopping just short of the trees that crown the knob. Once there, I spent some time soaking up the view, took some pictures picture and recorded some video. I took advantage of a good phone signal to post on them on Facebook. From my vantage point, I counted eight or so cell/TV towers.

Gary on Upper Pilot Knob. Lower Pilot knob in the distance. Bonus Video including me!
For some reason best known to Facebook & my phone this video is mirrored. I can’t be bothered to edit it to correct it. 
View to the west from near the top of the Upper Pilot Knob. The Lower Pilot knob is the pointy hill in the distance. Copyright © 2020 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. Time was moving on, and if I didn’t want to be getting home late in the evening, I needed to pick up the pace. I quickly discovered that the trails on the south side of the Pilots were a lot wetter than the Tower Trail.
At around 1:30 p.m. I arrived at the junction with Rock Spring Trail. ‘Sheep Frog Pond,’ which is right by the junction, surprised me by having water in it. That’s the first time I’ve seen water in this drying stock pond in several years. The trail junction and pond are very near to Rock Spring, I decided not to stop there, but instead carry on and stop at one of the Long Creek crossings where I would replenish my water and cook lunch.

‘Sheep Frog Pond’ – so named because we once heard sheep frogs here. It’s the first time I’ve seen it with water in it. Copyright © 2020 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. About twenty minutes later I came across a small creek with a fire ring set back in a grassy area around twenty feet or so from the trail. Knowing how busy the trails can be along Long Creek, I reconsidered my plan to have lunch there and stopped by this small creek instead.
I had some Beef Pho that Katie bought me and a cup of hot chocolate for lunch. While I was stopped a deluge of hikers came past. Eight in all. There was a guy walking his dog and looking for mushrooms. A family of five, and one couple. I was glad to be well off the trail, and not too pleased when the dog peed in the creek I was about to take my water from. Oh well, once they’d passed on I went a short way upstream to collect my water, not that all sorts of critters don’t pee, expire in, or generally mess up the water anyway. That’s why I filter and treat or boil my water.
Once back on Rock Spring Trail I only met two more people — this time traveling west — before I arrived at Long Creek. I hoped to get through this bit of the trail quickly before I met anyone else, but it wasn’t to be. I met another family of five coming along the trail just before my final Long Creek Crossing. As in my previous encounter, I stood well off-trail as they went past. One of the kids asked if I’d seen any bears, and was disappointed when I answered “No.” I could have mentioned ‘Gare Bears’2 🙂 but I thought better of it. Just before I turned onto the Pole (Pete) Hollow Trail I saw one last person in the distance walking a dog. That was the last person I saw. I make that eighteen people, all of them on the popular trails. While I kept more than six feet away from everyone, I did wonder about how effective six feet is, as I could smell their perfumes long after they’d gone past.

Long Creek – my favorite camping spots overlooking Long Creek are up on that ridge. Copyright © 2020 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. 
Long Creek. Only two more crossings to go (I think!) Copyright © 2020 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. I was surprised how quickly I hiked up the Pole Hollow Trail. Obviously, I’m getting better at this as I get more practice. I stopped near the top of the ridge to take a picture and arrived at the cairn where the Pole Hollow Trail meets the Pilot Trail at around 4:00 p.m.

View east from near the top of the Pole Hollow Trail. Copyright © 2020 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. 
Back at the Pole Hollow / Pilot Trail Cairn. And that’s it for another trip. It’s just a thirty-minute hike back to the trailhead from here. Copyright © 2020 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. I wasn’t sure when I’d get a chance to go backpacking again, so I sentimentally decided to put a couple of rocks on the cairn. I found a nice rock with some lichen on it for Ginger, and a lump shaped like a slice of cheese for me (seemed appropriately cheesy).

Rocks on the cairn – I’m not sure when I’m next going to get a chance to get out here, so I added a couple of rocks to the cairn. A pretty lichen-covered one for Ginger and a cheese wedge shape one for me. Copyright © 2020 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. Half an hour later I was back at the trailhead and on my way home.
Day Two Stats
Which brought my March total to 14.2 miles and only one night out in the woods. Somehow I think COVID-19 is going to make quite a dent in my 2020 backpacking plans.
Final Thoughts
It was a good hike, and it served my need to find a ‘calm center‘ to fix in my mind to help cope with whatever chaos arises over the next several weeks.
On a more practical note:
- Even the small quilts need to be put in stuff sacks in my new pack.
- The Beef Pho was a great lunch meal, I’ll need to get more.
- Given my pack is waterproof, it may be time to look for an alternative to the heavy (8oz) poncho. I thought I’d found one with the Frog Toggs, but the quality was so poor, I gave up trying to find something that worked.
- I should have taken my wood burning stove.
- I see a wood burning stove that packs smaller in my future.
- If I’m using a wood burning stove I need to bring along a separate mug to drink from.
- Looks like my base weight might start to creep up again. I need to find more items to jettison.
- My pack weight for this trip including food and clothing for colder temps was 19lbs.
Footnotes
1A new ranger renamed a lot of the trails in Hercules Glades, apparently ignoring the historical trail names that are used on all the online maps in the process. I Also think some mistakes were made. So, I stick with the original names and include the new names in parentheses.
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Journal: Two nights and a superb sunrise on the Bell Mountain Trail, February 2020

Ozarks Horizon. Bell Mountain – Day Two. Copyright © 2020 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. Many years ago, I read about hammock camping on Bell Mountain and the beautiful dawn vistas to be had looking out over Shut-in Creek. Ever since I read that article, I’ve wanted to camp on the summit and watch the sunrise.
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Ozarks Horizon. Bell Mountain – Day Two
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Cooking a late lunch

Cooking a late lunch. Bell Mountain – Day One. Copyright © 2020 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. Because of the rain, I decided not to make lunch on the trail and had a combined lunch and dinner after I’d set up camp. The wood burner is an experiment that appears to be working quite well. There were plenty of small twigs and branches around, which I collected for my wood burning stove that I used to heat the water for my meals. The stove is an experiment that appears to be working very well.
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The view from my hammock
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Bell Mountain. View to the east
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Tarp up in case it rains (again)

Tarp up in case it rains (again). Bell Mountain – Day One. Copyright © 2020 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. The threat of rain had me hastily setting up my tarp to provide somewhere to keep myself and my stuff dry. The rain soon cleared, and I got on with setting up camp and attending to camp chores.
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Bell Mountain. View to the northeast

Bell Mountain. View to the northeast. Bell Mountain – Day One. Copyright © 2020 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. It took me around three hours to get to the top of Bell Mountain. I should make it clear that ‘mountain’ is a bit of a misnomer. At 1702 ft and just a little over 500 ft above Shut-in Creek, it’s just a big hill. But ‘mountain’ sounds a whole lot more impressive. I’ve never been able to claim that I’ve slept on the top of a mountain before 🙂
I’d not explored much around the summit on our previous visit. What I found as I looked around was more camping spots and minor trails than you could shake a fully extended hiking pole at. As I’d expected, the area had been picked clean of wood, and there were lots of signs of people hacking things down to create their own deadfalls. On the plus side, I had the entire summit to myself, and the view was spectacular.
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Mr. Grumpy Goes Hiking

Mr. Grumpy Goes Hiking – there was a picture of me smiling, but for some reason it was out of focus. Bell Mountain – Day One. Copyright © 2020 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. The temperature had dropped, and I decided that rather than wrestle with my poncho again, I’d keep it on. The wind was picking up, and the poncho kept the wind at bay, and I was only wearing a shirt. I did think that I might overheat with the poncho on but that wasn’t the case.
There was a picture of me smiling, but for some reason it was out of focus. Here I am at the top of Bell Mountain (it’s a big hill really) with the view to the east across Shut-in Creek, 500ft below me. Because I was only wearing a shirt, the wind was cold, and rain showers kept blowing through, I kept the poncho on the whole hike. It kept me warm and dry.
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Sun on hail

Sun on hail – when the sun came out it lit up the hail and the water droplets in the trees. Bell Mountain – Day One. Copyright © 2020 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. Once the hail had cleared and the sun came out, it was magic, with all the light glinting off the ice and hail.
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Hail storm on the trail

Hail storm on the trail – I was expecting rain, but not hail. That’s the second time my rain gear has been tested recently. Bell Mountain – Day One. Copyright © 2020 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. About fifteen minutes into the hike it started to rain. I stopped and put on my rain gear and within a few minutes, it began to hail. Hard. There was a very short partial white-out, and I was enjoying myself. I resisted the temptation to try and get a picture while the hail was at it’s worst, but I did grab a picture as it eased off.





