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Scenic overlook on the Big Piney Trail — Looking Northwest
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Scenic overlook on the Big Piney Trail — Looking Southeast
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Scenic overlook on the Big Piney Trail

Scenic overlook on the Big Piney Trail — Backpacking the Big Piney Trail, December 2023. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. This view was the reason for my trip. I’d seen this vista in the spring, and I wanted to come back and see it in winter. I’m glad I did.
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Making lunch
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Signs of civilization
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Frosty Morning in Paddy Creek Wilderness

Frosty Morning — The temperature dropped to 19°F (-7°C) overnight. The predicted low was 28°F. I was glad I changed my mind and packed my bigger and heavier 10°F quilts. Backpacking the Big Piney Trail, December 2023. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. Not that it is easy to see the frost in this picture, but it is there!
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Running Repairs

Running Repairs — Backpacking the Big Piney Trail, December 2023. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. I’ve always had a plan for dealing with broken shoes on the trail. But … that plan reckoned on the toe post breaking not the side posts. I did a bit of head scratching before I came up with this solution which lasted me the ten-plus miles I needed to hike to get back to the car.
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Frosty Morning in Paddy Creek Wilderness

Frosty Morning — Backpacking the Big Piney Trail, December 2023. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. Day Three
The temperature dropped to 19°F (-7°C) overnight. The predicted low was 28°F. I was glad I changed my mind and packed my bigger and heavier 10°F quilts.
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Paddy Creek — Day Two
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Spring with pools
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Not where I expected to be, not what I expected to find, and some minor problems along the way

Finally, I found a spring with lots of water — Backpacking the Big Piney Trail, December 2023. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. Finally, I found a spring with lots of water. The three creeks at my planned campsite were dry. I had grabbed some water when I crossed Little Paddy Creek, but only a liter. Nothing for it but to carry on with my plan to hike along the North Loop and then bushwhack down to Little Paddy Creek, which has got me where I am now.
I’m waaay off trail bushwhacking down towards Little Paddy Creek, and I just:
- Broke the right ankle strap on my left sandal (huaraches) trying to climb up a large 10-15 ft boulder, blocking my way through a set of dry shut-ins.
Then while hobbling around barefoot(ish) trying to find somewhere to stop and repair my sandal, I
- Discovered this idyllic set of spring fed pools.

Not the first time … Gary fixing the laces on his huaraches, April 2013. Copyright © 2013 Ginger Allman, all rights reserved. I don’t carry a spare pair of shoes. The sandals I wear are not ordinary sandals. They are designed for hiking, trail running, and ultra marathons, so they are hardy. I have always planned for a failure of the toe post — I’ve had that happen many times over the years. However, this is the first time I’ve had an ankle strap break free.
I did a quick fix (that wasn’t at all effective), just to get me to a place to stop for the night with nearby water. I needed to work out a more permanent fix to last the remaining ten-plus miles of my trip.
Inspecting my other shoe, I found it was close to breaking too, so I was going to have to be more careful on the trail. I had taken a tumble off the boulder when the first shoe broke, I didn’t want to take another fall, especially if I was near a drop-off!
Once I had camp set up, I came up with a solution which worked, and looked like it would last the next couple of days.
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Don’t take a step back …
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Have a go at spotting my hammock
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Hammock Camping in Paddy Creek Wilderness

Camped in Paddy Creek Wilderness, at a spot I’ve nicknamed Paddy Creek Trolltunga. Backpacking the Big Piney Trail, December 2023. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. As it is going to be a short day in terms of mileage, I don’t have to rush to get on the trail. I took the time to light up my Firebox Nano stove, See: Breakfast in America: Firebox Nano stove, for my morning coffee, breakfast, and a follow-up cuppa tea. After breakfast I explored the area. Which just means I was wandering around.
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Morning view from my hammock

Morning view from my hammock — Camped in Paddy Creek Wilderness, at a spot I’ve nicknamed Paddy Creek Trolltunga. Backpacking the Big Piney Trail, December 2023. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. Day Two
I didn’t bother with the tarp, I enjoyed the night watching the stars and Satellites. The temps dropped to just below freezing, but I was nice and cozy.
I also spent some time last night studying the map, and I’ll carry on as planned. If there’s no water where I want to stop, I’ll keep hiking along the North Loop (less distance to go on Day Three — yay!). I’ll cross a couple of creeks that might have water, and if none do, I found one creek that descends fairly gently (according to the map) down to Little Paddy Creek, I’ll bushwhack down to Little Paddy Creek if necessary.
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Paddy Creek — Day One
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Ooh, it fits!
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The well was dry

The well was dry — Backpacking the Big Piney Trail, December 2023. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. I was surprised to spy a rat at the bottom of the well. It hid before I could take a picture. I was tempted to remove the sticks to make it harder for it to climb out, but I’m not that mean. The rat has more right to be here than I have.
I’ve seen this well full to the brim. It’s looking like I may need to re-think my plans for Day Two. I’ll study the map. Tomorrow I’ll cross several creeks on the North Loop, not to mention Little Paddy Creek, maybe I’ll find a creek with water in it that I can camp nearby. I want to be a bit further on than Little Paddy Creek Though.
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Gary on the trail (and a new hat, too)

Gary on the trail (and a new hat, too) Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. On the South Loop at the shortcut junction. Backpacking the Big Piney Trail, December 2023.
The hat is my first all-leather hat with a much wider brim to keep me dry and the sun out of my eyes at those times of year when the sun is lower in the sky all day long.
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Sun burst through the trees

Sun burst through the trees — Backpacking the Big Piney Trail, December 2023. Copyright © 2023 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. Taken on the South Loop at the short cut to the North Loop trail junction. I’m continuing on the South Loop — into the sun. It took me just over three-and-a-half hours to get here. That included a snack break and stopping to heat up some lunch.









