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Arrived

Arrived – Parked at the Berryman Campground/Trailhead, ready to start a leisurely four-day 27-mile hike of the Berryman Trail. Berryman Trail – Day One, December 2020. Copyright © 2020 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. Looking for a different trail to hike, I decided to re-hike the Berryman Trail, which we hiked during Spring Break 2011. Then we went around clockwise. This time I’m going counter-clockwise.
There’s a break in the weather, so I’ve taken three days off from work for the hike. Studying the map, it looks like the trail has been moved a lot in the past nine years, it should be interesting to compare the two trips. Just like in 2011, I’ll be taking four days to hike the 27-mile trail (the fastest time is under five hours!). I’m starting late (12:40 p.m.) as it is a 165-mile drive from Springfield, and I had a couple of things to deal with before I left. As with all my recent hikes, according to the forecast, the weather will break on my final day, becoming cold and wet.
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Journal: Four days on the Berryman Trail, December 2020

Morning Tea. Berryman Trail – Day Two, December 2020. Copyright © 2020 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. Looking for a different trail to hike, I decided to re-hike the Berryman Trail, which we hiked during Spring Break 2011. Then we went around clockwise. This time I’m going counter-clockwise on a leisurely four-day 27-mile hike.
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Open Wide

Open Wide – Attempting to resurrect my ailing PC with one of Ginger’s dental tools (she uses them for sculpting and texturing). Copyright © 2020 Gary Allman, all rights reserved Here I am attempting to resurrect my ailing PC with one of Ginger’s dental tools (she uses them for sculpting and texturing). I thought the machine’s problem was with the CPU or GPU overheating, and the dental tools are great for removing fluff from the heat sinks. I managed to get it going for about half an hour, and then it died again. Short of replacing the Graphics card or motherboard (I suspect it’s the graphics card that’s failed), I don’t think there’s much hope for it.
“It’s dead, Jim!”
The machine is around nine years old, and apart from an additional hard drive, it hasn’t had any upgrades in that time. So, I am now a lot lighter in the bank account. As my monitor, which is also around nine years old, has been playing up recently, I bought a replacement monitor too. Mucho $$$. I managed to get $300 off the monitor’s price, which makes me feel a little better about all the expenses.
Needless to say, without my computer, I’m a bit stuck on processing my outstanding pictures until the hard drive caddy I just ordered arrives (more $$$). Then I’ll be able to extract the 2TB data drive from the dead machine, and hook it up to a laptop. Not exactly what I had planned for the day.
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Gary – Hike finished and a tad damp

Gary – Hike finished and a tad damp. Paddy Creek Wilderness Day Three. November 2020. Copyright © 2020 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. For the second time, my hike of the Big Piney Trail ends with rain, but that’s tested my new waterproofs and my waterproof phone holder. Anyway, I don’t mind. With two nights out in the woods, over twenty-three miles hiked, 2,116 ft of elevation under my belt, and the last of the Paddy Creek Wilderness trails hiked, it’s been a good weekend.
Now for the 85-mile drive home and a nice hot shower.
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Stopped for lunch
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Lunch Break on the Big Piney Trail
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Who Lives in a house like this?

Who lives in a house like this? Paddy Creek Wilderness Day Three. November 2020. Copyright © 2020 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. The last time I came by this refuse/swill collector, I didn’t take a picture of the occupant as I didn’t want to spoil the surprise. This time around, though, I didn’t have any such concerns. I will say that someone has taken the time to clean this little den out, and it’s looking quite neat inside.
And the occupant? Well, you can scroll down to find out.

Surprise! Paddy Creek Wilderness Day Three. November 2020. Copyright © 2020 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. -
The light at the end of the tunnel
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Ready to go
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Hot chocolate and enjoying the view
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Camped above Little Paddy Creek

Camped above Little Paddy Creek – Paddy Creek Wilderness Day Three. November 2020. Copyright © 2020 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. Despite arriving after sunset I found a good spot, high on the side of the hill overlooking the creek. It was rather steep, so I laid a couple of limbs downhill from my hammock, I was hoping they’d catch any dropped items before they plummeted down to the creek.

Camped above Little Paddy Creek – Paddy Creek Wilderness Day Three. November 2020. Copyright © 2020 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. -
Paddy Creek
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View from the Slabtown Overlook

View from the Slabtown Overlook – Paddy Creek Wilderness Day Two. November 2020. Copyright © 2020 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. As usual, I was late getting on the trail. An hour late. I knew today was going to be a long hike – I reckoned ten miles or so, but my objective was to get to the Slabtown Overlook. And then depending on the time either camp by Big Paddy Creek, or Ideally, make it all the way back to Little Paddy Creek on the shortcut. So as I put it to myself, it was time to pour the coal on. And I did.
By 1p.m. I was at the overlook. The view from the Slabtown Overlook was very impressive. I thought there was a cave near here. I had a good look around, but I couldn’t find it, so I’ll have to do some more research and come back. Maybe I’ll drive next time 🙂
The access to the overlook is not obvious. There is a sign, but the writing on it has completely faded away. It’s a dirt (and muddy) track, so I wouldn’t recommend that any low clearance vehicles attempt to drive down to the overlook.
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Bones
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Frosty Morning at Paddy Creek Wilderness
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It was a tad chilly out last night

Frosty Morning – 27F, when I took the picture and 26F, was the lowest overnight temperature. Paddy Creek Wilderness Day Two. November 2020. Copyright © 2020 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. I was nice and cozy though. Too hot at one point. The night’s low was 26°F. Colder than forecast, but not unexpected.
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Setting up camp at dusk

Setting up camp at dusk – The sky is so light because the nearly full moon has already risen. Paddy Creek Wilderness Day One. November 2020. Copyright © 2020 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. I’m still looking for a good alternative to the fairy lights to illuminate my camp at night. I’d use my Coleman backpacking lantern, but (a) it is big and heavy, (b) it needs some TLC or a new non-return valve.
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Little Paddy Creek on the short cut between the South & North Loops

Crossing Little Paddy Creek on the Short Cut – Paddy Creek Wilderness Day One. November 2020. Copyright © 2020 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. Approaching Little Paddy Creek I could hear voices. I was surprised (and secretly pleased) to see that it was the four riders (and their dog) who had passed me on my earlier climb away from Little Paddy Creek. Someone suggested that they must have been talking too much, giving me time to catch up. Someone else pointed out that it was going to be cold crossing the creek in my bare feet. “I’ll be okay,” I said before plunging onward. Actually, it wasn’t too bad. Once on the other side, I took off my pack ready to filter some water and took a few pictures. I missed the best shot, which was as the horses and riders crossed the creek and were silhouetted by the setting sun. Unfortunately, I had just put my camera down and my hands were full of my water filtering gear.
In terms of composition, the picture below is much better, removing the distraction and multiple points of interest created by the horses and the sun. The image below has a strong line leading towards the focal point of the sun. But I prefer the human interest of the riders, which is why I favored that image to head up this post.

Crossing Little Paddy Creek on the Short Cut – Paddy Creek Wilderness Day One. November 2020. Copyright © 2020 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. 
Looking down stream. At the Little Paddy Creek Crossing on the Short Cut. Paddy Creek Wilderness Day One. November 2020. Copyright © 2020 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. The setting sun reminded me that time was getting on, and I needed to be moving. I quickly filtered a liter of water and set off, noting as I did, what looked like a very likely area to camp tomorrow night if I make it this far! As for tonight, I still had to climb out of the hollow up to join the Pig Piney North Loop Trail and get to my planned campsite for the night, a mile or two away.
As I was getting near the top of the ridge (and the junction with the North Loop), dusk was setting in, and I was overtaken again by the group of riders (plus dog. One mustn’t forget the dog). I thought that was a bit odd, as they’d left ahead of me, but I assumed they must have been exploring one of the side trails. They stopped a ways ahead of me, and I noticed a cell phone (presumably GPS) being consulted. Then they turned around and headed back in my direction. “Is there a trail turning right near here?” “Hold on,” says I, “I hope so because that’s where I’m headed. I’ll check my GPS.” A quick look at my GPS (phone) told me I was where I thought I was. “Yes, the junction with the North Loop is around 600 feet further along the trail.” They turned around again and headed off. Fortunately, I’d got my information right for a change, and they were soon on the North Loop of the Big Piney Trail heading northeast. It was starting to get dark, and they were a long way from the Big Piney Trailhead if that was where they were headed. Hopefully, they got to their destination without incident.
I followed them down the trail, and I was soon at the side trail I needed to take to get to my planned camping spot. I was glad to see that my hunch was right, and there was water in the creek, and I quickly left the trail and started bushwhacking along looking for a good place to stop.
The USGS Topo Map for Paddy Creek Wilderness is wrong
It was a puzzle as to how they could have got themselves misplaced when they had a GPS. Then it dawned on me they were probably using the same USGS CalTopo map I was. On my previous visit, I’d noticed that the trail’s position marked on the map was offset to the north by about 240 yards. For that reason, before embarking on this trip, I had downloaded a GPS track of the Big Piney Trail so that I wasn’t relying on my remembering to mentally shift the trail south when navigating. If they were using that map, it would be easy to become misplaced and take the wrong trail.

The Trail Marked on the USGS and Forest Service maps is wrong – It is offset 240 yards to the north -
Pine trees by the Big Piney Trail

On the climb up from Little Paddy Creek – Paddy Creek Wilderness Day One. November 2020. Copyright © 2020 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. The climb up from Little Paddy Creek to the ridge is some three-hundred feet. Unlike some of the other climbs on this trail, it is a fairly gentle ascent. Once on the ridge, the trail is fairly even and in a little over thirty minutes I was at the site of the old homestead that marks the junction of the shortcut through to the North Loop.
I didn’t stop to take any pictures. Below are a couple from my visit in February.
The ‘short cut’ trail is pretty easy to follow but quite rugged in places. This was obviously a major road at one time, as there were drainage ditches to be seen, and in places the trail had been leveled. I met another group of riders coming up the trail, and I was reminded of how polite and respectful the locals generally are, with casual ‘Howdys’ and several ‘Sirs’ sprinkled into the short exchanges as the riders filed past. Around ten minutes later I came upon a straggler. It seems his horse, a very frisky mare, had got away from him at one point, and he was trying to catch them up. He couldn’t have been trying that hard as we chatted for five minutes or so. Long enough for the dreaded “Where are you from?” question to be asked. However my stock answer of “Springfield.” didn’t draw further questions, and I discovered that he had roots in Bolivar (about 40 miles north of Springfield).
It wasn’t long before the trail was leveling out and running through some creekside flood plains, nice and easy hiking, but a damp environment that I didn’t think would work for my Day Two camp. That’s okay though. I’d already thought I’d fancy a spot on the side of the hill on the opposite side of the creek.
Forty-five minutes or so after I turned on to the short cut, I arrived at the point where I’d cross Little Paddy Creek for the second time. As I didn’t top up my water at the first crossing, I planned on doing it now.
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Creek Crossings and horse traffic

Little Paddy Creek – Looking upstream – southwest. Paddy Creek Wilderness Day One. November 2020. Copyright © 2020 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. Once you get to the bottom of the ridge, there are two creek crossings before the climb up the other side of the hollow begins. The second (below) is where I stopped for lunch on my first hike around the Big Piney Trail. This time I didn’t want to waste any time stopping for lunch, so I carried straight on without a pause.
Coming down the last bit of the ridge trail I was overtaken by a group of riders, which would be of no consequence if it were not for the fact that I was going to meet the same group again on the trail tomorrow.
Climbing up out of the hollow I was overtaken by another four riders and their dog. A lot of hikers complain about the horses and how they cut up the trail. I don’t have any problem with them. Yes, they do churn up the trail, but they also keep a lot of otherwise less traveled trails open. And for that, I can forgive the occasional poor trail conditions. This particular group I was going to meet up with a few more times before I got to camp for the night. More on that later.










