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Camp at first light, Irish Wilderness
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Looking down the Eleven Point River covered in mist
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Looking up the Eleven Point River covered in mist
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Video: First Light, Irish Wilderness
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Day Three — First Light, Irish Wilderness
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Irish Wilderness Day Two — Fiddler Spring to the end of a ridge overlooking the Eleven Point River

I managed the two ridge climbs quite quickly, seven minutes for the first after leaving Fiddler Spring and fifteen minutes for the second, after crossing Whites Creek. The trail was nowhere to be seen for most of the way on the three ridges I hiked along. A lot of bushwhacking was required.
When hiking without a clear trail, it would help if I used the compass I always carry (and know how to use). Doing so would save me some time and trouble. I also have a bad habit of getting a wild idea that I know where I’m going and before I know it, I’m way off trail. It only happened a couple of times on this hike, but on the first occasion, I had to swallow my pride and backtrack a fair way. At least I realized I was off track and decided to check my location.
I arrived at my campsite at four-thirty. My trail notes said:
1630. Stopped for the day. The trail was non-existent on the last section. Decided to stop on the top of a hill, we’ll see how that works out. Cell service!
— Tired physically — the two hills and bushwhacking for miles took it out of me. Worth it though!
Future Gary says, if I had I thought about what I’d written, It might have dawned on me that there was a hint of potential problems to come. That said, I expected the trail from Bliss Spring to the trailhead to be in as good condition as the trail on Day One from the trailhead to Whites Creek. Yeah. Probably not…
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Eleven Point River view from my campsite — looking south
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Eleven Point River view from my campsite — looking north
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Appearances can be deceptive

Appearances can be deceptive. Whites Creek, Irish Wilderness. Copyright © 2024 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. A quarter of a mile upstream the creek was dry. I had to backtrack a little way to get water for lunch and to stock up with water for the afternoon and night. There wasn’t going to be any water where I planned to stop.
That meant I was going to carry three liters (6.6 lbs.) of water 200ft. up the hollow on the north side of Whites Creek to get to the ridge.
On my last visit I camped on the ridge to the south of Bliss Spring. Studying the map, I saw that the ridge ended quite abruptly about 260ft above the Eleven Point River. Seems like a good place to spend the night, and it’s also quite close to the trail for an easy getaway in the morning. We’ll see.
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At the Float Camp Junction of the Whites Creek Trail

At the Float Camp Junction of the Whites Creek Trail. Copyright © 2024 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. I was last here in March 2023.
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An hour later, Whites Creek Cave

Whites Creek Cave on the Whites Creek Trail, Irish Wilderness. Copyright © 2024 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. The unofficial trail came out exactly where I expected. I’d hiked the top part of it on my last visit, and obviously missed where it turned to go down to Fiddler Spring.
The main Whites Creek Trail was easy to follow, until it wasn’t. And that was as soon as it went up on top of the ridge.
I kept coming across the trail intermittently, but I mainly bushwhacked my way until near where the trail dropped down to Whites Creek Cave. From my trail notes…
1309 It wouldn’t be Irish Wilderness without losing the trail a few times. Stopped for a drink and a bacon snack. 1 armadillo. Nearly at the cave.
I see someone has removed the sign from above the cave.
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Sunshine at last

Camped at Fiddler Spring, Irish Wilderness. Copyright © 2024 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. Drying out my gear was my excuse for not rushing to get on the trail. The frost on my tarp needed a chance to melt and dry. I lollygagged around and didn’t start packing up camp until eleven-forty. Taking it easy, I didn’t leave camp until twelve-thirty.
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Camped at Fiddler Spring, Irish Wilderness
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Trying out a gas stove for a change
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Day Two, the view from my hammock

Day Two, view from my hammock — Camped at Fiddler Spring, Whites Creek Trail, Irish Wilderness. Copyright © 2024 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. 
Frosty. It was 24°F at 0730. Copyright © 2024 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. When I decided to stop at Fiddler Spring, I forgot to check its orientation to the rising sun. It was a long chilly wait until the sun climbed high enough to reach the campsite. It was also “Surprise! Suprise!” a lot colder than forecast. At seven-thirty it was twenty-four degrees.
The ground around the campsite was soft and rough. Either feral hogs or armadillos had thoroughly turned it over. I suspect the latter as I had already encountered two or three of them on yesterday’s hike. The overnight freeze had hardened the ground up a bit. Fiddler Spring campsite lived up to the messy reputation it had. Someone had left a tarp lying on the ground, and there was some other trash scattered around too.
The good news was, exploring the area, I found what promises to be a much better camping area nearby. Albeit on the other side of Whites Creek, which may present problems if the creek is running. It was bone dry while I was looking around. Hanging my food bag, I discovered an unofficial trail that looked to head straight up to the ridge. I had an idea of where it might lead, and I decided to leave via that trail. Doing so would save me from having to backtrack to the official Whites Creek Trail/Fiddler Spring junction. And I know from experience, that that section of trail is blocked by several downed trees and lots of catbriers.
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Irish Wilderness Day One — Camp Five Pond Trailhead to Fiddler Spring

It was a loverly warm afternoon. At two pm I had to stop and get rid of some layers, have a bite to eat, and a drink. The South Loop was easy to follow, until, that is, I dropped down to Whites Creek, where it had been washed out in several places. But that’s par for the course.
I probably ought to change my strategy when it comes to losing the trail. If practical, I usually back-track or scout around until I find the trail again. A much quicker method would be just to get a compass bearing to a sensible point further down the trail and bushwhack my way until I find it again.
I had identified a potential area to set up camp near where the trail first meets Whites Creek. After looking around I concluded it would probably not get the sun first thing in the morning. As sundown was still a while off, I decided to carry on. Every yard I went today was a yard I wouldn’t need to hike tomorrow. I set my sights on stopping at Fiddler Spring, setting me up for a good climb up onto the ridge to start my hike tomorrow. As I passed by, I briefly toyed with the idea of stopping where I camped on the penultimate day of my last visit to Irish Wilderness, but I decided to stick with the plan and head off to Fiddler Spring.
I arrived at Fiddler Spring at four-thirty. I had (conveniently) forgotten how trashy the campsite at Fiddler Spring is, but with the sun already down behind the ridge I made the best of it.
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Evidence of Busy Beavers on Whites Creek, Irish Wilderness, Missouri
They’ve been very busy, and at the moment, it looks more like wanton destruction than a lodge building exercise. -
New notice boards and a registration point at Camp Five Pond

New notice boards and a registration point at Camp Five Pond. Copyright © 2024 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. 
Be prepared (or get lost) — Trail Sign. That is very true. Irish Wilderness, Missouri. Copyright © 2024 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. I found it almost impossible to open the registration box, and the forms inside seemed to have been designed to put people off completing them. No writing implements were provided either.
Some teething problems with the new registration point, I think.
One sign did catch my eye, and that basically said, “Be prepared or get lost.” How true that one is.
I couldn’t have got round as easily as I did were it not for my GPS. The paper maps I bought along were not good enough. Lesson: bring maps that are usable, not a small-scale area map.
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Ready to get on the trail
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At the Camp Five Pond Trailhead

Parked at Camp 5 Pond, Irish Wilderness. Copyright © 2024 Gary Allman, all rights reserved. It’s good to be back. This might be a challenging trip, it’s very early in the season which means the trail is going to be
impossibledifficult to follow. I’m also hiking the trail ‘backwards’ — clockwise (South Loop first), leaving the eight-mile, possibly water-less, North Loop section for the last two days.I’m carrying my full winter setup, except I have my summer tarp, even though the weather is going to be warm during the day, there are two nights around freezing in the offing. I know from experience how those can drop into the low twenties. I did a thirteen-mile trip in December with no problems, my first long trip since last May. Twenty miles in four days should be fine.

Gear Changes
- New sandals. I bought an identical replacement pair for those I broke on my last trip.
- I have the ‘Pocket Rocket’ gas stove instead of my Cat Can alcohol stove.
- Pop Tarts! I’ve never eaten them before, but a lot of backpackers swear by them, so I’ve packed one per day.
- New ‘Daisy Chain’ hammock suspension.
- New tie-outs for my tarp. I now have the same fittings on both my tarps.
- I was going to take out my old pack, but I dropped that idea. Maybe when the weather gets warmer, and I’ll have a lighter loadout.
- I’ve made a new stopper for my water filter.
- If I could find my sit pad, I would have left my chair behind. But, I couldn’t. I’ve ordered a replacement — they are only $7.
- and I’ve finally convinced myself I don’t need to pack as many clothes.
A whole bunch of gear changes, but nothing radical.









